tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24066728625664659912024-03-14T03:22:31.945+00:00journographieCaterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.comBlogger22125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-50716758571353382122023-08-17T23:19:00.000+01:002023-08-17T23:19:55.510+01:00Our Buddhist Temple Stay in Koyasan, Japan<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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The morning air is crisp and fresh up here in the Temple Town of Koyasan. Primeval forests surround the sleepy town, and it is the giant old Cedars in the distance that we can smell.<br />
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Koyasan is a temple town and the cradle of Shingon Buddhism. The main temple, the Garan, was founded around the year 800 by Kobo Daishi. Since then, hundreds of temples have sprung on the streets of Mount Koya.<br />
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We haven't bothered leaving our bags in the temple where we will be staying tonight. Instead, we are walking down the streets to find some breakfast. A short bus-ride from the train station has brought us to the centre of town. The bus dropped us off by the post office whilst many shops were still shut - some are now opening. We cross the road to the beat of a cute electronic bird tweet announcing the pedestrian light is green.<br />
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<h2>
Hamadaya: Tofu from the heavens</h2>
Through some research I've found a highly-rated place to eat. The shop is a family business known for their fresh, soft, heavenly goma-dofu (sesame tofu). This tofu is made of three ingredients: local spring water, ground sesame paste and kudzu root powder. The result is a block like panna-cotta, mild in taste. This is a staple of shoujin ryouri, the vegan cuisine of Buddhist monks.<br />
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Buddhists monks' cuisine goes beyond being vegan or vegetarian. Monks don't eat strong-tasting vegetables (like garlic) because they believe they 'excite the senses'. But just because it's simple, it doesn't mean their food is plain. In fact, a lot of monk head chefs take a lot of care and dedication in cooking. Their food, though pared down, can be an intense experience for those who appreciate simplicity.<br />
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A blue carpet and long counter furnish this bare shop. There are no tables, but there is a bench by the bright windows. In the back, three generations of a local family are making today's batch of goma dofu. I take a peep and they spot me - someone's coming out to greet us.<br />
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The lady has kind, smiling eyes and good English. She explains the tradition of making goma dofu and points at a little stream that runs outside the shop. They use this spring water to make the tofu. She hands us a sheet that show two pictures of tofu. One is dressed in soy sauce and the other has a little sugar sprinkled on top. We go for savoury.<br />
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We wait five minutes before our tofu appears in front of us. It is simple, like in the photo. It has a bit of wasabi and some soy sauce.<br />
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We cut a slice and try it. My eyes and Chris' meet each other - they are wild, in mutual understanding. 'This is a piece of heaven,' I say. And it is. It's the silkiest, creamiest, softest piece of food I have ever tasted. The flavour is subtle, you have to find it, to imagine it. It is ephemeral, its trail gone before you can memorise it. We decide against a second serving. We don't want to spoil the experience.<br />
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What Koyasan is about</h2>
There's a lot of discussion online on whether visiting Koyasan is worth it. One has to go in with the right expectations to enjoy it. Koyasan isn't a town for shopping, sight-seeing or night-life. It's a sacred temple town. It's a place to find a connection with nature and with your inner being. It's a place for walks, mindfulness, spirituality, traditions, exploring and trying.<br />
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The best things to do in Koyasan are based on getting a taste of a monk's life. Temple lodging and cuisine (Shojin ryori), visiting the Garan, exploring the Okunoin Cemetery... even going for a walk in the mountains. Generally, it's about slowing down.<br />
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Discovering the temples</h2>
We walk to the East end of town and start at Daimon Gate. A huge, imposing wooden structure, it has an opening in the middle through which we walk. On the sides, it's guarded by two statues of Hindi Gods Un-Gyo (mouth closed) and A-Gyo (mouth open). Life and death.<br />
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Nearby there's the Otazuke-Jizo, a tiny shrine to the deity, protector of travellers. If you get off the beaten path to find it, you're granted one wish. Make it count.<br />
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Next we seek out the photogenic Konpon Daito pagoda with its blood-orange structure.<br />
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We visit Kon-do Hall, Chu-mon gate and Kongobu-ji Head temple.<br />
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The temples seem to be in bundles together, and it's beautiful to discover them one by one on our silent walk.<br />
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We arrive at the Danjo Garan, the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism.<br />
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Tall Cedars surround the Garan. In the distance we can hear chanting, and we turn around to see a group of monks paying their respects and offering prayers to temples, one by one.<br />
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We take the time to quietly sit down at a temple and trace our own chants.<br />
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<h2>
Okunoin Cemetery at Dusk</h2>
My favourite part of Koyasan comes later, after dinner. We have decided to visit the Okunoin (the monk cemetery) after-dark. We've heard there's a tour at twilight but by the time we arrive there, we've missed it. Instead, we're now at the opening in the forest.<br />
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Behind us, the sky sends threats of rain. Ahead, a long and dark path stretches as far as the eye can see. The eye can't see much - it's getting dark. The only way is forward.<br />
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The entrance looks innocent enough. Like a walk in the park. All of a sudden the rain starts pouring, so we head into the forest and seek cover under the canopy of the trees. The darkness shrouds us, a path of tiny twinkly lights shines the way beyond Ichinohashi Bridge.<br />
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There is not a soul around us. A sea of stone now reveals itself. Everywhere we look there are tombstones and mausoleums covered in moss. 200,000 of them in fact, as this is the largest cemetery in Japan.<br />
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The memorials stretch in every direction, even up onto the side of the mountain. A sort of fear slices through the silence and wills us onward. The thought of staying still is scarier than going deeper in. We walk and walk for what feels like eternity.<br />
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The Hall of Lamps</h2>
The place is eerie and so quiet we can hear the rain drops coming down on the cold stones. A thick fog has now descended and we can barely see what's ahead. This path is 2km long, but we know we're near something special now. We pass a stream and suddenly the rain stops. There's a goldern glow ahead. We're at the Hall of Lamps.<br />
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Torodo Hall - as it is known - is the main hall for worship. We peek through the window. In the midst of the blue darkness, a thousand little bright yellow lights float in the air, suspended from the ceiling of this amazing temple. Tens of thousands of lanterns have been donated to the Hall and are kept eternally lit - some have been burning for 200 years. Tonight they are our beacon.<br />
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We walk around the perimeter of the Hall. We can't go in, but we make our way behind it.<br />
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Kobo Daishi's Mausoleum</h2>
Behind Torodo Hall lies Kobo Daishi's mausoleum. Instead of passing away, Kobo Daishi is said to have entered eternal meditation here in 1984. It is now more than an hour since we entered Okunoin. The spookiness has left us and is now replaced with a sense of deep humility. We offer our prayers in silence.<br />
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Finally, after a long while we walk away from this magical experience. We look over our shoulders as we said goodbye. I didn't even try to take a picture of it, nothing can do it justice. But as we move away, after a few steps, the darkness engulfs us once again and we quickly pick up the pace back out of Okunoin.<br />
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Staying in a Shukubo (Buddhist Temple)</h2>
We'd done a lot of research prior to booking our temple stay in Mount Kōya and settled for Yochi In, a Buddhist Shukubo (monk lodging) established in 1127 by an imperial prince. The temple is a five minute walk from the Kongobuji and the main temples.<br />
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One thing that strikes me is how despite taking in hundreds of visitors every year, the temple is basic, traditional and spiritual. The trainee monk who greets us speaks virtually no English (not that we expected him to), so we communicate via drawings and google translate.<br />
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The rooms are bare, which is kind of traditional for a Japanese room. I hear the Shukubo is freezing cold in winter. The services here are minimal, no one is here to attend to you or look after you. You are simply a guest in a working temple and it is you who adjusts to the timetables of the monks. We didn't book dinner at Yochi (which needs to be done well in advance at any monk temple) but we've heard it's a good part of the experience. We've had a long day so we are glad to be in our room. We fall into a deep sleep as soon as our heads touch the pillow.<br />
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Chanting Buddhist Sutras</h2>
It barely feels like we've been asleep for five minutes when our alarms go off. It's 5:45 and we have 15 minutes to get ready to join the monks in their early morning Buddhist Service.<br />
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We brush our teeth and in our sleepy haze head to a room at the front of the temple. We take our shoes off and go into a dark room. The smell of incense permeates every sense as our eyes adjust to the new setting. The room is square and heavily decorated, it glows golden and red. The walls have thousands of wooden carved figures. Lamps hang from the ceiling. In the middle, there's a shrine, a bowl and a drum. We're given lyrics to some Sutras that we're welcome to join in and sing later on. The ceremony is intriguing and beautiful. The monk's throaty chants reverberate in the back of my mind. I don't know if it's the lack of sleep or the smell of incense but I'm like in a trance.<br />
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When the ceremony is over we get a chance to ask the trainee monk anything we want. He strikes us as someone so wise beyond his years, he considers his answers with no rush, and is deliberate in the words he chooses to explain his philosophy.<br />
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When we go back to our room, our futons have been put away. We shower, dress and say goodbye to our hosts. On the main road we enter a 7-eleven and get an egg sandwich and water to go. We're catching an early train back as there is a lot more of Japan to see, and this is only the start.<br />
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<h2>
How to get to Koyasan</h2>
Koyasan can be done as a day-trip from Osaka or an overnight stay. It's just under 2 and a half hours of train ride from Namba station. Catch the Nankai-koya line to Hashimoto and then switch to a same-line train to Gokurabashi (and sit facing the window, not your phone!). Finally, take the 5 minute Nankai-Koyasan cable car. From Koyasan station, a frequent bus service takes you into the town in less than 15 minutes. The whole ride is about ¥1,260 (under £10/$15).<br />
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Where to stay in Koyasan</h2>
Stay in a Shukubo (temple lodging) and book dinner / breakfast ahead too. We stayed at <a href="http://www.yochiin.com/">Yochi-in</a> but head over to the <a href="http://eng.shukubo.net/temple-lodging.html">Shukubo Association Official Site</a> to research and book directly with them. A well-recommended Shukubo where food is also highly-rated is <a href="https://tabelog.com/en/wakayama/A3001/A300103/30003818/">Ichijou-in</a>.<br />
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Where to eat in Koyasan</h2>
I highly recommend <a href="https://www.japan-experience.com/city-koyasan/hamadaya">Hamadaya</a>. Beyond this, there are a number of noodle shops and Shabu-shabu restaurants (where you cook your raw veggies and meats in a hotpot). Most restaurants close early, so be advised: either book ahead at your Shukubo or head out for dinner before your chosen restaurant shuts.Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Koya-san, Koyasan, Kōya, Ito District, Wakayama Prefecture 648-0211, Japan34.2166667 135.583333300000058.6946321999999974 94.27473930000005 59.738701199999994 176.89192730000005tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-14864983485664379662023-08-17T23:15:00.001+01:002023-08-17T23:15:49.808+01:00Second Time in Japan: Our Complete 2 Week Itinerary<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Beyond Tokyo and Kyoto, the geishas and the tea ceremonies, shrines, bullet trains and robot restaurants, there is still a delicious world to explore. If you're planning your second visit to Japan, or you want an alternative guide with off-the-beaten-path ideas, read on.<br />
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Itinerary Overview</h2>
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This itinerary takes you from Tokyo into the <b>Sayama Forest </b>and beyond, into <b>Nagano</b> to visit the <b>Snow Monkeys</b> and the quaint postcard-perfect town of <b>Shibu Onsen</b>. Hike the <b>Nakasendo </b>Edo-period trail between the two restored post towns of <b>Magome and Tsumago</b>. Explore <b>Kamikochi</b>, a remote valley in the <b>Hida mountain range </b>and soak those tired feet in <b>Hirayu Onsen</b>. See the tallest dam in Japan, <b>Kurobe Dam</b>, as you reach the heights to walk through the <b>Snow Corridor </b>on the <b>Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine</b> route. See the <b>Hida Folk Village</b> in <b>Takayama</b>, and the UNSECO heritage world site in <b>Shirakawa-go</b>. Have tea at the old geisha tea houses of <b>Kanazawa</b> before cycling above the Seto Inland Sea on the <b>Shimanami-Kaido </b>road. Finally, discover the island of <b>Enoshima</b> and the port town of <b>Yokohama</b>. This is an adventure not to be missed!<br />
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Day 1: Tokyo - Roppongi Hills and Akasaka</h2>
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After landing in Narita, we check in at <a href="http://kaisu.jp/" target="_blank">Kaisu</a>, a cute former Ryoten (a place where geishas would entertain guests) in Akasaka and then head out for lunch at the excellent and well-recommended <a href="https://www.sushinomidori.co.jp/eng/" target="_blank">Sushi No Midori</a>, inside Biz Towers. <b>Akasaka</b> is a bit of a sophisticated commercial district, with luxury hotels, concert halls and upscale bistros. And whilst we wouldn't call this our <i>vibe</i>, we picked it to explore a more suburban, different face to Tokyo to what we've experienced before.<br />
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After lunch we walk to <b>Hinokicho Park</b>, an urban oasis of peace and calm, to enjoy the views and people-watch. The excellent <b><a href="https://www.suntory.com/sma/" target="_blank">Suntory Museum of Art</a></b> is just across the road (under renovations until May 2020). We then make our way to <b>Roppongi Hills</b>, an entertainment and shopping complex where one can find the <b><a href="https://www.mori.art.museum/en/" target="_blank">Mori Art Museum</a></b> and the <b>Mori Art Garden</b>. Both have interesting, fun and accessible exhibitions. Top tip: art museums often have unique souvenirs!<br />
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Day 2: Tokyo - Ghibli Museum and Shinjuku</h2>
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In the morning we visit <b><a href="http://www.ghibli-museum.jp/en/" target="_blank">Studio Ghibli Museum</a></b> in Mitaka. We've bought tickets well in advance, and as Studio Ghibli fans (ever seen Totoro, Spirited Away or Only Yesterday?) we are excited. The museum was designed by Hayao Miyazaki's (the director) son, who's great vision and creativity can be enjoyed by children and adults alike. Each room carefully and beautifully details the filmmaking journey of the studio.<br />
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In the afternoon we head to <b>Shinjuku</b> where we meander along streets behind the station to stumble upon <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/Tq2kgV41njnsesNDA" target="_blank">Takamaru</a>, a rustic fish shack serving lunch menus to locals. We devour a sashimi bowl, miso soup, rice, fried oysters and koroke (potato croquettes). Shinjuku is best explored at night though, with the bright lights of every billboard overhead shining along Central Road and adjacent streets. <i>This</i> is the Tokyo you see in films.</div>
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Day 3: Roadtrip to Nagano - Shibu Onsen Town</h2>
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We pick up our rental car and drive to the <b><a href="https://www.sayamaparks.com/sayamahills/english.html" target="_blank">Sayama Hills</a></b>, a great place for a day trip from Tokyo, with lush forests and peaceful lakes. There are a ton of outdoor activities to try in the Sayama forest and the best place to start is at the information centre. On this trip we've decided to visit some of the forests protected by a non-for profit organisation called <b>Totoro's Forest </b>(in allusion to Studio Ghibli's <i>My Neighbour Totoro</i>), which we have <a href="https://www.journographie.com/2018/08/totoros-forest-sayama-hills-tokyo-day-trip.html" target="_blank">written about extensively here.</a><br />
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We continue to <b>Yamanouchi, </b>the region famous for the Snow Monkeys. Most people choose to stay near the Snow Monkey park entrance, but in our opinion, that's a big loss. Having no more than one long pedestrian street and two or three narrow roads, Shibu Onsen is a quaint sleepy village, just the perfect size to explore in one evening. It's known for its 9 outdoor Japanese hot spring baths, which can only be used by guests of Shibu Onsen Ryokans (traditional guesthouses).</div>
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We make a brief visit to the small and quiet <b>Shiga Kogen Brewery</b> where an attendant lets us taste different types of Sake. Bellies full of sake, wearing our kimonos and Geta (wooden Japanese sandals), we precariously walk back to <b><a href="http://eihachi.com/english.html" target="_blank">Matsuya</a>, </b>grab a key to public bath #8 and soak in the impossibly hot water. We then enjoy a private dinner (booked in advance). These dinners are often elaborate and made up of several little dishes. Alongside the hot baths, these are one of the highlights of staying in a Ryokan.<br />
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<h2>
Day 4: Jingokudani Snow Monkeys</h2>
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We drive up to the <b>Snow Monkey park</b> carpark and trek slowly uphill for about 40 minutes to get to the entrance. When we get there park workers whistle loudly, signalling something to the macaques, who descend the mountains by dozens. We enjoy an hour or two of observing the macaques bathe and play, but we leave with a sour aftertaste: we shouldn't have come here at all. This might have been an off-the-beaten path place to visit a few years ago, but the amount of tourists visiting now cannot be good for the animals' welfare.<br />
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A couple of hours later we're in <b>Matsumoto</b>. Matusmoto could be one of the most underrated large cities we've been to in Japan. It's relaxed, friendly, modern and impossibly hip. We park up and get some soba noodles at <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/zbaBJJK93hkqU4SeA" target="_blank">Soba-dokoro Kippo</a>. Then we walk to <b>Matsumoto Castle, </b>one of the best castles to visit in Japan for its great displays, friendly volunteer guides and beautiful history.</div>
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Later, we check in at <a href="http://tabi-shiro.com/" target="_blank">Tabishiro</a>. In the evening, we walk around town and instantly fall in love with it. Cute cafes, galleries, second-hand shops, bars and libraries. We stop at <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/6sxDZ3ZS7tzCi4Cz8" target="_blank">this</a> book store and drink an umeshu (plum wine). Then we move on to the tiny <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/Amd5DuPvH3rxV2Wx7" target="_blank">8oz standing bar</a> next door where we meet the owners of <a href="http://c.countly/">C.Countly</a> clothing. We have such a good time chatting that we decide to grab dinner at <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/rEgXvQN9e42vxxbw7" target="_blank">Hikage</a> izakaya.<br />
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<h2>
Day 5: Kiso Valley - The Nakasendo Trail</h2>
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In the morning, as soon as the <b><a href="http://matsumoto-artmuse.jp/en/" target="_blank">Matsumoto City Museum of Art</a></b> opens, we enter and head straight for the permanent <b>Yayoi Kusama </b>exhibition. Even Chris, who wasn't so keen on spending a morning of our trip in an Art Museum, is gobsmacked as we experience Yayoi's most incredible installations.<br />
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A couple of hours later we're driving to the <b>Kiso Valley</b>. Here, we'll stop at <b>Magome</b>, a post town serving travellers of the <b>Nakasendo</b> - a route that linked Tokyo to Kyoto in the Edo period. The town has been restored and one can visit it on one fell swoop of its main pedestrian road. We leave the car at Magome and walk the <b>Magome-Tsumago trail</b>, an 8km hiking trail through forests and countryside.<br />
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Our hearts feel full of Japan as the sun goes down and we climb back onto our car (we've caught a bus to take us back to the starting point). We drive off into the mountains to our next lodging in the town of <b>Hirayu Onsen.</b><br />
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<h2>
Day 6: Kamikōchi & Hirayu Onsen</h2>
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We wake to an insane view of tree-covered mountains on all sides. At the bottom of the street we board a coach to <b>Kamikochi</b> (only a few minutes' ride) and get off at <b>Taisho Pond</b>. The lake is azure and clear and full of tourists. After photos we walk through the forest and marshes. We see ponds tainted deep orange from iron and manganese, clear streams and lush trees covering the bed of the forest.<br />
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On our way back we stop by the <b>Imperial Hotel</b> (called the Teikoku hotel here), which was the inspiration behind the hotel in the film The Wind Rises (also a Ghibli film). We eat some delicious desserts and drink tea whilst we rest our feet.<br />
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In the afternoon we visit <b>Hirayu no Mori</b>, an inn with dozens of rotenburo (outdoor hot springs). After soaking and napping, we drop off the car in Matsumoto and take a train to <b>Shin Omachi</b>.<br />
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<h2>
Day 7: Toyama Prefecture - Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route</h2>
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The <b>Tateyama-Kurobe alpine route</b> has been on our itinerary since I first saw a picture of the <b>snow corridor</b>, a path flanked by two huge walls of ice. The entire route has several scenic spots, and to transverse it you have to take up to 8 different modes of transport!<br />
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We start by catching a bus to Ogizawa at 8am. The bus goes through a lovely, peaceful countryside route. The morning sun already beats down with energy; the rice paddy fields glisten. At <b>Ogizawa</b> we are ushered into the trolley bus, which takes is to <b>Kurobe Dam</b>. We take our time to explore the magnitude of this miracle of engineering. We then board a cablecar, ropeway and tunnel trolley bus. Finally, we reach <b>Murodo</b>, where the famous snow wall is.<br />
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After lunch walk around the lake at the top of the mountain and later board a cablecar and train and back to <b>Toyama</b>, where we pick our bags and board a train for <b>Takayama</b>.<br />
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Day 8: Takayama</h2>
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We're taking it easy today. We walk from our traditional inn <a href="https://www.irori-sosuke.com/english/" target="_blank">Minshuku Sosuke</a> to the <b>Takayama Jinja shrine</b>, where a modest farmers' market has congregated. Old ladies and gents sell home-grown rice, pickles, vegetables and crafts. We browse before deciding to go inside the shrine, accompanied by an insightful volunteer guide. Even if you are a bit ‘shrined out’, which can happen in Japan, this shrine is well worth a visit. More than just a structure to see, it has lots of interesting function rooms, kitchens, workhouses and a beautifully preserved original garden.<br />
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The highlights of our afternoon include a visit to <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/YzJ1E9LPdGf1YxdD7" target="_blank">Koma</a>, a proper Okonomiyaki restaurant where they cook the rich, savoury pancakes in front of you. Koma, the lady who owns it, is also the cook, and looks like a character out of any beloved children's film. After, we find <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/JSj53rHqsKen7Nh77" target="_blank">Hanakawa Rent a Bike</a>, where we meet the owner, and older man who is just so chatty and adorable.<br />
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We cycle to the <b>Hida Folk Village museum</b> - a collection of houses from different periods with items that retell stories of their former owners. A beautiful and haunting experience. We recommend going two to three hours before closing time, so you catch it a bit emptier and can fully enjoy the atmosphere.<br />
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We ride back down the hill to return the bikes and get beers at the incredible <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/yYdt4VB8Wuc2VSBz5" target="_blank">EBIS Cafe & Pachinko</a> (slot machine and pinball rooms) whose owner is welcoming and fun: he teaches us how to properly play Pachinko whilst we drink our beers!<br />
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<h2>
Day 9: Shirakawa-go UNESCO World Heritage Site</h2>
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In the morning we visit the <b>Takayama Festival Floats Exhibition Hall</b> to see the huge floats and costumes that locals use twice a year, during their spring and autumn festivals. Then we depart.<br />
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<b>Shirakawa-go</b> could be summed up concisely: a traditional Japanese mountain village of thatched houses. In reality it is something quite exceptionally different.<br />
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The village, along with neighbouring <b>Gokoyama</b>, have remained relatively unchanged architecturally for 100s of years, so much so they are now listed as UNESCO world heritage sites. Part of the reason why the villages have remained so unspoilt is due to their isolation, cut off from the rest of the world and less affected by the feudal Edo period and post-war modernisation. Whilst you can stay overnight, we opt for a 4 hour visit (more than enough time to walk the village and have a meal).<br />
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After a late lunch we catch a coach to <b>Kanazawa</b> - or little Kyoto - as it's also known. We check in at the boutique-style <a href="https://www.thesharehotels.com/hatchi/?wovn=en" target="_blank">Hatchi Share Hostel</a> near the old town and drink our complementary umeshu. Later, we stumble upon an Izakaya (bar & food) where we sit at the bar alongside Japanese locals who've just finished work.<br />
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<h2>
Day 10: Kanazawa Gardens & Tea Houses</h2>
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Breakfast takes place at the busy <b>Omicho Marke</b>t, a food market selling fresh fish, vegetables, fruit and anything your Japanese weekly grocery shop might include. We then walk to <b>Kanazawa Castle</b>, where yet another kind volunteer guide takes us through the grounds, explaining its history and significance. After, she guides us through <b>Kenroku-en</b>, one of Japan's 3 most beautiful landscaped gardens. This too, proves to be a beautiful and serene experience.<br />
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Next, we walked through neighbourhoods to reach the <b><a href="https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4205.html" target="_blank">Ninjadera</a></b> (Ninja temple, booked in advance). Hear us out - this is not some tourist trap. It wasn't a temple for ninjas, instead it was a house designed to confuse and baffle any ninjas or assassins attempting to kill the lord of the temple via booby traps, hidden rooms and false doorways.<br />
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In the evening we visited a restored <b>Chaya</b> (tea house) in the popular <b>Higashi Chaya </b>district in Kanazawa. Geishas used this chaya to entertain guests with talks, dances and playing instruments.<br />
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<h2>
Day 11: Cycling the Shimanami-Kaido</h2>
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After Kanazawa, we went to stay with friends who live in the countryside - about an hour inland from Fukuyama near Hiroshima. But for your 2-week second-time visit to Japan, we'll skip to what we did just after that: went to <b>Onomichi.</b><br />
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Onomichi is a cool little surf town with a great vibe, and the popular starting point for people wanting to cycle the <b>Shimanami-kaido</b>. An expressway consisting 60 km of road spread across some of the longest suspension bridges, it has long stretches that hang over the<b> Seto Inland Sea</b>. This bike route is incredible and can be done both by professionals or amateurs wishing to enjoy a different experience.<br />
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You don't have to do the full 60km - we actually did about 20km with our friend, his 3 and 6 year olds kids. In the evening we stay at the super-hip U2 hotel, which is made with bikers in mind (you can bring your bikes into the hotel room!).<br />
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<h2>
Day 12: Enoshima Island</h2>
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We arrive at <b>Enoshima Island</b>, a westernised town South West of Tokyo, instead of returning to Tokyo to spend the last days before the end of our trip. Enoshima is a small island accessible by foot, much visited by locals during the summer as well as visitors - it is a well-transited place.<br />
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To avoid the crowds, we cross into Enoshima very early, even before some businesses have opened. The road into Enoshima becomes a path up its hill, flanked by restaurants and souvenir shops. In the middle you reach the Enoshima shrine honoring Benzaiten, the Buddhist goddess. At the top, you can try some <b>Tako Senbei</b> (octopus cracker), a local snack, and visit the <b>English-style Samuel Cocking Garden </b>and <b>Sea Candle lighthouse</b>.<br />
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When our feet clamour some rest, we sit down at <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/ivD5f9uVo5hTEtMN9" target="_blank">Loncafe</a>, set within the gardens, and enjoy some fabulous French patisserie overlooking the sea beyond. At night, we retreat back to <a href="http://enoshimaguesthouse.wixsite.com/home" target="_blank">Enoshima Guesthouse</a>, a tiny and beautiful guesthouse.<br />
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<h2>
Days 13 & 14: Yokohama and fly home</h2>
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<b>Yokohama</b> was one of the first ports in Japan opened to foreign trade. Notably, it was also the home to foreign diplomats, and a bustling place to get your hands on the latest imported fashion from Europe and beyond. What's beautiful about Yokohama is that it affords you a chance to stroll it and discover it at a leisurely place. Enjoying fresh baked goods, little quaint shops, incredible views over the bay and visits to grand European-style post-war houses, buildings and gardens.<br />
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Since Yokohama is only a short train ride away from Tokyo, it's also an ideal spot for a day-trip if you're staying in Tokyo on your final days in Japan. Start with a stroll around the <b>Minato Mirai</b> waterfront area and climb up the <b>Yokohama Landmark Tower</b> - the sky garden inside has some of the best views. Wander to <b>Red Brick Warehouse</b> for shopping and then on to <b>Yokohama Chinatown </b>for a spot of lunch and to get lost amongst the beautiful buildings.<br />
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One of our favourite areas was <b>Motomachi</b>. Walking up the hill past Bluff Bakery you get to walk past Motomachi Park, where the <b>Ehrismann Residence </b>and the <b>Foreign Cemetery</b> are - both worth a visit. Further down the road there's '<b>Home of a Diplomat</b>' and the <b>Yamate Italian garden</b>. At nighttime the <b>Noge</b> area is great for live jazz and a wander by the riverside.<br />
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<h2>
How We Did This - Tips Before You Go</h2>
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<li>We rented a car from day 2 until day 6 and drove into the more remote areas, where it's not so convenient to catch infrequent trains and early buses</li>
<li>Driving in Japan is relatively easy if you're used to driving abroad, or if you normally drive on the left-hand side. Traffic is respectful, and soon you're motorways anyway, where it's easier to drive and follow Google Maps</li>
<li>We started using our 7-day Japan Rail Pass from day 6, but you need to make sure you exchange them much earlier - the best place to exchange your Rail Pass is on arrival at the airport. You can then activate your Rail Pass at any JR office when you're ready to use it</li>
<li>This trip requires a rather comfortable budget. We spent around £1500 / $2000 per person excluding flights. The accommodation is by no means on the luxurious side of things, but all our lodgings are mix between value, comfort and experience</li>
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Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Japan36.204824 138.2529249.549143 96.944330000000008 62.860505 179.561518tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-60188537319749087072023-08-17T23:15:00.000+01:002023-08-17T23:15:34.671+01:00This is What a Hike in Japan's Edo Period Nakasendo Trail Looks Like<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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There is something liberating about being in the middle of a Japanese forest, walking along, with no other soul in sight. Our hearts pump at an accelerated rate but our minds are elevated, breathing in the fresh air and absorbing the lush green trees and bird sounds all around us. We're hiking in the Kiso Valley.<br />
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What is the Magome-Tsumago Route?</h2>
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The Kiso Valley is in the Nagano prefecture, between Tokyo and Kyoto. One of several routes during the Edo period, the Nakasendo Trail connected many towns along the way between these two cities. Today, the Magome-Tsumago route is a great choice for those who want to experience off-the-beaten-track Japan. We want to share with you a little bit of what that hike was for us in photos, to see if it sparks your wanderlust!<br />
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<h2>
Hiking in the Kiso Valley</h2>
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We've arrived by car, as we're been visiting a few towns in Nagano, but many people doing these hikes come by coach or train. We use Google maps to drive into Magome and park there and it's only by a miracle that we avoid driving straight into the main pedestrianised old road - Gmaps is not our friend today. We slowly reverse through someone's farm before we enter the correct details for a car park.<br />
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Once in Magome we take our time to stroll through the main road. Magome is an old post town that has been completely restored to look like its former Edo-period version. It's lined with cafes, tea houses, restaurants, souvenir shops and small museums.<br />
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It's a sunny day and we take our time to observe people coming and going, pensioners painting, groups of families enjoying being outdoors together. The town is small but perfectly formed.<br />
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When we get to the end of the road, we bring up a self-guided walk to Tsumago on our mobiles and start walking through fields. It's an 8km walk from Magome to Tsumago, so we don't want to start it too late. After about 10 minutes of walking we realise we are going in the completely wrong direction. We turn around and start over.<br />
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We retrace our tracks back through Magome and up to the carpark where we left the car. Past the carpark and further up the hill there's a nice resting place with a great view of the fields below.<br />
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As we continue up we begin to pass little shabby country homes, lush fields and pretty roads that lead us deeper into the forest. Every now and then we pass country fields and more little villages with little homes pop up.<br />
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Now we're walking past rice fields, and suddenly the forest gets thicker and prettier. Throughout the trail there's streams, birds singing, bells to ward off bears (yikes!) and nothing but nature. It's a reinvigorating walk full of changing sights of the Japanese country.<br />
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Finally we arrive at Tsumago. It's quarter to 5 so most people have left for the day and most shops have already shut. We just take a little stroll before hopping on a bus to take us back to Magome, where we walk to our carpark and to our car.<br />
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<h2>
Where to find more information</h2>
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If you're planning a trip to Japan and want to include something different, this hike is great for beginners and experienced hikers alike. Extensive guides have been written and are being regularly updated. Check out <a href="https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6078.html" target="_blank">this article </a>on japan-guide.com which also points out up-to-date accessibility information.<br />
<br />Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-11355739728967837292023-08-17T23:14:00.000+01:002023-08-17T23:14:05.032+01:00How to Spend a Day in Nara: Temples, Sacred Deer & A Giant Buddha<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7mBjG6gDR6Q9hazKO628yGoeeg5_GN6XPjtB2_PzctoW229qo3vtpxPLv0xTwyYazEPpHRZTcFtiRUJS6EpkKAmyoL5zJC5amoYrS4MIXxUxWIY7_rKUVUxuHjlGgr6n_mcnynsaUldexJ_iwexrWrL-iv_WP--tsl8vqQW078ciq-UQDWrzvi4HPhKMW/s1540/journographie%20Nara-14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7mBjG6gDR6Q9hazKO628yGoeeg5_GN6XPjtB2_PzctoW229qo3vtpxPLv0xTwyYazEPpHRZTcFtiRUJS6EpkKAmyoL5zJC5amoYrS4MIXxUxWIY7_rKUVUxuHjlGgr6n_mcnynsaUldexJ_iwexrWrL-iv_WP--tsl8vqQW078ciq-UQDWrzvi4HPhKMW/s16000/journographie%20Nara-14.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div>Nara was once the capital of Japan. Its first permanent capital, in fact. According to Shintō taboos up until the 7th century, the capital had to move every time an emperor passed away. This practice disappeared under the influence of Buddhism, and after a couple of rounds of trial and error in other locations, the imperial seat was established in Nara. In this guide we'll tell you what to see in Nara if you've got just one day.</div><span><a name='more'></a></span><div><br />The Nara Period (AD 710-784) is of huge importance because it was the birth of Japanese culture as we know it. Influenced deeply by Chinese civilisation, the Japanese developed their alphabet, government, arts and architecture. They even adopted Buddhism.<br />
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We're arriving in Nara on a train straight from <a href="https://www.journographie.com/2018/07/shukubo-temple-stay-koyasan-sacred-mount-japan.html">our adventures in the Sacred Mount Koya (Koyasan)</a>. Half of the fun has been getting here, as we descended the mountain and passed through picturesque traditional country homes.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgGbgPxUxraO4gp9xr0dkpsHqGS7s3i7DJxvoMNT5F6PJdjxpFADaN3IYWMDqQRMlD1RYzJZ-yvVpijXB4vFtsettwWPnQXcXr8TFmDm-dRryySNbVmRfJHIsu9DAJXuTZjeqUWqmXFCvzzCgjQSF3ayal2-8AtQcJqJalsmwhodf5NkNO7pctyWbMHUh/s1540/journographie%20Nara%20journey-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpgGbgPxUxraO4gp9xr0dkpsHqGS7s3i7DJxvoMNT5F6PJdjxpFADaN3IYWMDqQRMlD1RYzJZ-yvVpijXB4vFtsettwWPnQXcXr8TFmDm-dRryySNbVmRfJHIsu9DAJXuTZjeqUWqmXFCvzzCgjQSF3ayal2-8AtQcJqJalsmwhodf5NkNO7pctyWbMHUh/s16000/journographie%20Nara%20journey-1.jpg" /></a><br />
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Most people do Nara as a day trip from Osaka or Kyoto (both under an hour train ride away) – which is absolutely doable. We're going to spend the night here and take it slow, and then tell you all about it.<br />
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<h2>
Kōfuku-ji and the five-story pagoda</h2>
We start with a walk to Kōfuku-ji, a Buddhist temple established in 669 by the powerful Fujiwara family. The temple played a significant role in Japanese history and culture, serving as a centre of religious practice, political influence and artistic development.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8TF9s7JgsKCCb5KDctx4HHXOCe6Z_U5OcoabkJAB3EjZU8TXO8ePiwwJdxRcBWzfWwVnik0_czQ6dte5y-TZXQacjUeKdsmaFA-xvrjPKBQj4qbAl_9EC5wsAX8Zd5pUu4XsksEuDpO3SgqUbRn-8G1UQDUbKLqTrxoU38YuKWfFboh0P46QbtDbKxM_A/s1540/Nara%202-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8TF9s7JgsKCCb5KDctx4HHXOCe6Z_U5OcoabkJAB3EjZU8TXO8ePiwwJdxRcBWzfWwVnik0_czQ6dte5y-TZXQacjUeKdsmaFA-xvrjPKBQj4qbAl_9EC5wsAX8Zd5pUu4XsksEuDpO3SgqUbRn-8G1UQDUbKLqTrxoU38YuKWfFboh0P46QbtDbKxM_A/s16000/Nara%202-1.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>One of the most notable features of Kōfuku-ji is its five-story pagoda, which stands at ~50 meters (164 feet). This pagoda is an iconic symbol of the temple and Nara itself. It was completed in the early 8th century, making it one of the oldest wooden structures in Japan. The pagoda's architectural design showcases Chinese and Korean influences, reflecting the cultural exchanges of that time.</div><div><br /></div><div>Kōfuku-ji is also part of the Nara Tokae Festival, an annual event that lights up the city's streets and temples with thousands of lanterns during the summer evenings. The temple's pagodas and structures are adorned with lanterns, creating a magical and ethereal atmosphere.</div><div><br /></div><div>A rather interesting fact I've recently learned about Kofuku-ji is that it featured in the classic 1954 film "Seven Samurai," directed by Akira Kurosawa. A must-watch.</div></div><div>
<h2>
Strolling in the calm Yoshikien gardens</h2>
We then make our way through the petite Yoshikien gardens, named after the small river that runs beside them. Visitors often skip Yoshikien, either in favour of the famous Isuien Gardens next-door, or because they simply don't know about them.<br />
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The entrance fee is waived for foreign visitors upon completing a very short questionnaire at the entrance. The man in the booth has as many wrinkles as the sky has stars; his fingers tremble as he passes us a pen and paper. I feel like he's been guarding these gardens all of his life. I crane my neck sideways to see inside: there's no one in there. Did he go grey waiting for visitors? "We're here now! Sorry we took so long," my heart whispers.<br />
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Japanese gardens are aesthetically simple. They are meant to inspire reflection and meditation. Yoshikien consists of a pond garden, a moss garden and a camellia garden for tea ceremonies.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhue0RkLTgaJBajDRfEXufePCaxnorQ7RQPcRCM7I55WK7xXw_Bz91E4GE2iBbWlwNxJyyxGNBScRGm4wu2-WLFsWlItCiJQOCsRyt3yETb0OMIK9eEr-aGK6x1YxrkH-V7bEo7I86aGQVZh_J35n5jFS_SUOFp2W-zArQAMbuVyz0zoshUIRl5rNXH3clS/s1540/journographie%20Nara%20gardens-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhue0RkLTgaJBajDRfEXufePCaxnorQ7RQPcRCM7I55WK7xXw_Bz91E4GE2iBbWlwNxJyyxGNBScRGm4wu2-WLFsWlItCiJQOCsRyt3yETb0OMIK9eEr-aGK6x1YxrkH-V7bEo7I86aGQVZh_J35n5jFS_SUOFp2W-zArQAMbuVyz0zoshUIRl5rNXH3clS/s16000/journographie%20Nara%20gardens-1.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqddTbipuH-Cu2EDpwP6v9h8KM8_lADMTXShqgDbRVWAwgFaqeV5-grVxk6xzK8qVNlH4RUXdUafxc6kNlGe95-AkZiiEByNT3Vp5_DQiZxSLgifIfx8s4v4PnhVfmIIxtkQuaeqEtMgbiwmFTt7YSFKo4-CeC3LUCD8GifvbVW4K1vQXUt2cbYKAUFCO9/s1540/journographie%20Nara%20gardens-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqddTbipuH-Cu2EDpwP6v9h8KM8_lADMTXShqgDbRVWAwgFaqeV5-grVxk6xzK8qVNlH4RUXdUafxc6kNlGe95-AkZiiEByNT3Vp5_DQiZxSLgifIfx8s4v4PnhVfmIIxtkQuaeqEtMgbiwmFTt7YSFKo4-CeC3LUCD8GifvbVW4K1vQXUt2cbYKAUFCO9/s16000/journographie%20Nara%20gardens-3.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div><br /><h2>Isuien gardens: a peaceful oasis</h2>
We move on to nearby Isuien garden. These are one of the top sights in Nara and have been designated an Important Cultural Property of Japan. After paying a small fee (which also includes entrance to the Neiraku Art Museum), we stroll in.<br />
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Isuien Gardens provide a different perspective to Yoshikien Gardens. Whilst at Yoshikien we could see three different varieties of gardens, here we can see two different techniques: one from the Edo period (front garden) and one from the Meiji period (back garden).<br />
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A tranquil spot here is the Sanshutei Tea House, where you can sit and relax sipping on a cup of tea. They also serve the popular Mugitoro (a wheat dish of rice and a sticky food made from grating a yam).</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZySBvH8QG_vWXo-uOCft_ir6IpITE59GKS8DRDHijygEUzzgKVlXlJdL9uMFfhmg1dGTo_xxFqWvk1NAGH5nsLGDGJadL3iiDyQqvsxpEht-nGNR86bYJRcB4Gxv9KMLg3YhomGM3KjvJ-5xKatwZOE2eNDd8OleHSOC4okXnARdW6uKSNHqDDPCxbRDz/s2310/journographie%20Nara%20gardens-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2310" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZySBvH8QG_vWXo-uOCft_ir6IpITE59GKS8DRDHijygEUzzgKVlXlJdL9uMFfhmg1dGTo_xxFqWvk1NAGH5nsLGDGJadL3iiDyQqvsxpEht-nGNR86bYJRcB4Gxv9KMLg3YhomGM3KjvJ-5xKatwZOE2eNDd8OleHSOC4okXnARdW6uKSNHqDDPCxbRDz/s16000/journographie%20Nara%20gardens-4.jpg" /></a><br />
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Whilst roaming freely, we spot a volunteer guide (of which there are many in Japan). We join the free talk, it's super insightful. We learn about the architecture and the features of a tea room and the gardens and the reasons behind them. Our attention is diverted and entirely absorbed by her badge.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdNghYRyuCqgn9xlM11kKY1B4E2tZkJTf-91GVqrlHGmUAEzkXAlitXnozK_3tHqT1Us_tQy2VIe00EbyvnBu2nEOIx6p3I5tanCiq8Da0AzuBzGFdt4j9rqTFt04oMP8MY_10ulx7zxJikYT-rvBKBKbi56y6-hIuy4HCBK67-61FXko5egpfHpKXDpLb/s1540/journographie%20Nara%20gardens%202-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdNghYRyuCqgn9xlM11kKY1B4E2tZkJTf-91GVqrlHGmUAEzkXAlitXnozK_3tHqT1Us_tQy2VIe00EbyvnBu2nEOIx6p3I5tanCiq8Da0AzuBzGFdt4j9rqTFt04oMP8MY_10ulx7zxJikYT-rvBKBKbi56y6-hIuy4HCBK67-61FXko5egpfHpKXDpLb/s16000/journographie%20Nara%20gardens%202-1.jpg" /></a></div><div><br />
<h2>
Messengers of the Gods</h2>
Having left the gardens, we enter Nara Park and head towards Nandaimon Gate.<br />
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The area of the ancient park (one of the oldest in Japan) is 1,240 acres, and it's full of wandering sika deer. These are considered messengers of the gods in the Shinto religion, and protected by law.<br />
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Several stalls and shops in the park sell deer biscuits (called ‘shika senbei’). These are made of wheat flour and rice bran and are safe for visitors to feed the deer. In fact, part of the profits from the sale of biscuits goes towards protecting these animals. Human food however, is not safe for deer, so if you’re planning to grab a bite in Nara Park make sure to dispose of your rubbish properly or take it home with you.<br />
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As cute as the deer are, they are wild (or semi-wild) and so, they’re capable of finding their own food, which is largely grass. Deers here have been known to become hostile and bite tourists who are not cautious in interacting with them, so please do treat them with respect.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1wxYgooYT8PK6t2E48syPOaPLETF1dexzZFzylP0mVEYnToV76v7XrVSbXF59NjP2BGOLmsuVPzrTDmD7NwdiJt_z6Fp-MxT4asQFLwY6Fb3wadW0IhgbBhB5PIhhF6dPL2RehRHM_pnwOFDviVSWxl8_DriYykQiAR1HOa8huKMDrrcFEC_34aTGzIfz/s1540/journographie%20Nara-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1wxYgooYT8PK6t2E48syPOaPLETF1dexzZFzylP0mVEYnToV76v7XrVSbXF59NjP2BGOLmsuVPzrTDmD7NwdiJt_z6Fp-MxT4asQFLwY6Fb3wadW0IhgbBhB5PIhhF6dPL2RehRHM_pnwOFDviVSWxl8_DriYykQiAR1HOa8huKMDrrcFEC_34aTGzIfz/s16000/journographie%20Nara-1.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigz-l79VNphACSzw2BzgPPvbCJkBeBmGJqOtidg61rJs9GNr4Knw2Es1F3goKwGBsCNdoFeAOEQb81aHHDQ9DJ31Z6ZXVIjBg72K0a0AwlWmd2whYYi26Z3rh-VadYruGxV6p5Q9x76wZ8ocv6__YcOEHF8wd0vDLSF8A34PSxu5NUPuDM4j4A2BTijWFy/s1540/journographie%20Nara-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigz-l79VNphACSzw2BzgPPvbCJkBeBmGJqOtidg61rJs9GNr4Knw2Es1F3goKwGBsCNdoFeAOEQb81aHHDQ9DJ31Z6ZXVIjBg72K0a0AwlWmd2whYYi26Z3rh-VadYruGxV6p5Q9x76wZ8ocv6__YcOEHF8wd0vDLSF8A34PSxu5NUPuDM4j4A2BTijWFy/s16000/journographie%20Nara-3.jpg" /></a></div><div><br />
<h2>
Ancient temples, giant Buddhas</h2>
We make it to the Tōdai-ji (Eastern Great Temple). This is an imposing Buddhist temple set on a wide road, with the park as a backdrop. It's the home to the Daibutsuden (Great Buddha Hall), where we find the World's largest bronze statue of Buddha.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJfSk5s-fIAVUHcz35dBNgCXVY_NdFxQJY5vl6ADtztVkhLzZE1amU7d2LjJa-dFXqq_A514J5afNmdTrcOAtE6hq31O-N1Ej0ILgdeP8yUVOIRfwlRwOQTkvvGB5ey4CX_SHiSZaHLwwyfOL9QEic5vjpKySOLpQwcBx-aOJL_a03_3JUO__DaLG8Rmn/s1540/Nara%202-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJfSk5s-fIAVUHcz35dBNgCXVY_NdFxQJY5vl6ADtztVkhLzZE1amU7d2LjJa-dFXqq_A514J5afNmdTrcOAtE6hq31O-N1Ej0ILgdeP8yUVOIRfwlRwOQTkvvGB5ey4CX_SHiSZaHLwwyfOL9QEic5vjpKySOLpQwcBx-aOJL_a03_3JUO__DaLG8Rmn/s16000/Nara%202-3.jpg" /></a><br />
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There are countless people in here but the imposing statue stands tall and makes everything go still. We slowly walk around it, unable to take our eyes off of it. Once inside the hall, we slow down and start observing other visitors interact with the hall and buy O-Mikuji (a piece of paper with a random fortune).</div><div><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguRg0sXZr_0gjw45N31bTRqaTAF-ZPCYA6iPnTkkYOOfr2PHUA71YMpz0YJOHFWBO3J8h8oLAU3DUMQB9gKtN6jk99QxWLyNDyyEOZwKc-3qLXdk0RHQJ_1Vmgq5hmjtZZR-Ipgq_70XRYU1-arc3lKy2nAQhf6IaGJAeI4XhVSNZ2rUu3v5tx0rOq9GVA/s1540/Nara%202-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguRg0sXZr_0gjw45N31bTRqaTAF-ZPCYA6iPnTkkYOOfr2PHUA71YMpz0YJOHFWBO3J8h8oLAU3DUMQB9gKtN6jk99QxWLyNDyyEOZwKc-3qLXdk0RHQJ_1Vmgq5hmjtZZR-Ipgq_70XRYU1-arc3lKy2nAQhf6IaGJAeI4XhVSNZ2rUu3v5tx0rOq9GVA/s16000/Nara%202-6.jpg" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>
We take a back route through the Great Bell to get to Nigatsu-do and Sangatus-do halls. The views from here are spectacular.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFcikQoeqvZgHtHWyNvvIqEEpqx48cyMWgNAcnyLJPQqpd-uKlq4VjBO7m6tHv25clWuAb2_Lt7aYk-j1zRmQ_xqz1rdlg2Zoit0-VDRicBB5vxEg3usjHVpU0SevMFou0uXeZNwebzkMCatTl4AtSZatr-9d2soVlVwlAgfhBg-5nt6OhYdauuzMhkmxs/s1540/journographie%20Nara-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFcikQoeqvZgHtHWyNvvIqEEpqx48cyMWgNAcnyLJPQqpd-uKlq4VjBO7m6tHv25clWuAb2_Lt7aYk-j1zRmQ_xqz1rdlg2Zoit0-VDRicBB5vxEg3usjHVpU0SevMFou0uXeZNwebzkMCatTl4AtSZatr-9d2soVlVwlAgfhBg-5nt6OhYdauuzMhkmxs/s16000/journographie%20Nara-4.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div><h2>Kasuga Taisha</h2>
We walk through beautiful paths, countless little shrines and dozens of deer. Walking through this area of the park is decidedly quieter. We even spot a few Japanese people quietly offer their prayers, clapping their hands twice before bowing deeply.<br />
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We arrive at the Kasuga Taisha shrine, a massive structure in the traditional blood-orange colour that denotes it's Shinto.<br />
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This is Nara's most famous shrine. It was established when Nara became capital and it's dedicated to the deity that protects the city.<br />
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Kasuga Taisha is famous for its hundreds of bronze lanterns - donated by worshipers - and which are lit twice a year during Lantern Festivals in early February and mid-August.<br />
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In this state of awe is that we walk towards the complex in front of the shrine: the Shinen Manyo Botanical Garden. This garden has more than 250 plants that were described in Japan's oldest collection of poems dating to the Nara Period.<br />
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<h2>
Maguro Koya: Nara's best hidden secret</h2>
I've had the privilege of visiting and eating at some of the best restaurants, thanks to the industry I was working in and all those business lunches. But with a hand on my heart I can say that the top 10 foods I've had in my life have been at unassuming little local restaurants, often run by a tag team of husband and wife. Nothing tastes better than fresh food sourced locally, prepared by someone who's been making the same thing over and over all of their lives.<br />
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I found Maguro Koya on Tripadvisor when it only had a handful of reviews there and another handful on Google Maps. I was looking for recommendations made by locals, in Japanese language.<br />
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We arrive at the place but miss it twice. The shop front is dingy and has no sign whatsoever. Inside, it looks a bit run down but the sweet, sweet, husband and wife have already seen us come in and we're too embarrassed to back out. The once-white walls are covered in grease and smoky marks. It does not look appealing.<br />
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Still, we order. We order everything Maguro-related, because this is a fresh tuna restaurant. A piece that is normally extremely expensive in Japan and in the rest of the world is Otoro, which is the fatty belly part of the tuna. There are different grades of fat and quality. It takes an expert eye (and touch) to identify a superior cut at the market.<br />
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Well it turns out this man has it. The food that comes out is out-of-this-world. The fried Tuna, the Sashimi, the croquettes.... I will come back to Nara just to come back to this place. Unfortunately this is no longer a hidden gem. To date they're rated 4.6 by more than 700 people on Google - so you'll have to fight for a table.<br />
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This meal ends a perfect day in Nara. Our feet hurt, our bellies are full and we have huge grins on our faces. We're walking to our guesthouse - tomorrow we have more places to discover!<br />
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<h2>When to Visit Nara</h2><div style="text-align: left;">Most guides will recommend Spring. And of course Spring will have Cherry Blossoms, but it's also an incredibly busy season. A better time to visit, in our opinion, is Autumn. October and November are still warmish months with crisp sunny days, less rainfall than Summer and to top it all, stunning golden foliage. And it will be quieter. We wholeheartedly recommend you visit during Autumn.</div><h2>How to get to Nara</h2>
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From Osaka Station take the Yamatoji Rapid Service to JR Nara station (50 min, about 800 yen). From JR Namba Station, take the local train of the Yamatoji Line to Kyuhoji Station and transfer to the Rapid Service (51 min, about 650 yen).</div>
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From Kyoto JR Station take the JR Nara Line (45 mins by express, about 690 yen). From Kintetsu Kyoto Station take the Kintetsu Nara Line (35 min, about 1,110 yen).</div>
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Where to stay in Nara</h2>
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We highly recommend <a href="http://www.nara-backpackers.com/home.en.html" target="_blank">Guesthouse Nara Backpackers</a>. The 100-year old traditional house is centrally located and beautifully kept. It's got a central Japanese garden with a cherry blossom and a traditional kotatsu table in the common area, to keep your tootsies warm in winter. You'll be welcomed with charisma and warmth. Don't forget to support them and book directly with them.</div>
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Where to eat in Nara</h2>
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Other than the excellent Maguro Koya, we recommend you wake up early and seek out <a href="https://en.japantravel.com/nara/mochi-pounding-at-nakatanidou/20313">Nakatanidou</a>. These sweetmakers are famous for their fast pounding of mochi dough. You can visit them any time of day, really, but expect a looooong queue to try one of their delicious yomogi mochi sweets.</div></div>Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Nara, Nara Prefecture, Japan34.6850869 135.805000234.4761079 135.4822767 34.8940659 136.1277237tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-16737912026402743202023-08-17T12:03:00.001+01:002023-08-17T12:04:04.059+01:00A Guide to Hiking Kamikochi: The Northern Japan Alps<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs_LH5C4bkp__oirbatBU_FK9jigxuJW97gYbTS20BTobt-R3dou2DzPeo8o5AXcR2kFh6v3QfPKT2GVb9SAl-JK-eMHIfppbqshvsZ_B-E50LHeZRNZqZ3Yt_HsB4tBuF6QiR7CWpmF6Pbb7e7SlgWOMZIktfo6KbZFnKlTZWzT0j07hTk21uXWoLclem/s1540/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs_LH5C4bkp__oirbatBU_FK9jigxuJW97gYbTS20BTobt-R3dou2DzPeo8o5AXcR2kFh6v3QfPKT2GVb9SAl-JK-eMHIfppbqshvsZ_B-E50LHeZRNZqZ3Yt_HsB4tBuF6QiR7CWpmF6Pbb7e7SlgWOMZIktfo6KbZFnKlTZWzT0j07hTk21uXWoLclem/s16000/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-8.jpg" /></a></div><br />Kamikochi is a hiker's playground. It's a narrow basin that sits within the Northern Japan Alps and offers dramatic landscapes of Japan's highest peaks. It has trails for people of all abilities, so you can do a day trip or go for multi-day traverses. Here we tell you about our experience and how you can best plan yours.<span><a name='more'></a></span><p></p><p><br /></p><p>It is early June. This is my second time in Japan and the Chubi Sangaku National Park, where Kamikochi valley is, is on my list. So we're doing it. I've spent about three hours last night driving from nearby Magome where we did the epic <a href="https://www.journographie.com/2020/03/magome-tsumago-nakasendo-hike-japan.html" target="_blank">Nakasendo hike</a>. We've stayed the night at <a href="http://www.ryokan-tanaka.com/" target="_blank">Ryokan Tanaka</a> in Hirayu so that we would be nearby and be amongst the first visitors.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We wake to 360 degree views of tree-covered mountains on all sides from our room. Later, walking down the street, I spot a steam of the spring water that runs underground. At the bottom of the street we board a coach to Kamikochi and sit in the air-conditioned cabin for about half hour. Then the coach stops at Taisho Pond and a few people get up to leave. On a whim, I decide this is where we're getting off. Taisho Pond is azure, clear and full of tourists. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUwbAKTpAUamiMaZ7sDOxC9QFd2154wVrs_n7ybPZQa1_8p1qNxyyuP8RG-ohwmuO6P1fjLA6iMKNg3NnzTesaM6bB3af8j6ahue5vsfHH4bMH1d_Eup1M8gUJGSOMDEP8tbNycUuBFHr75oq0AHcMz-heGHfn5QWAvmH4Xp72P86thedPUKqMwi6OrbB1/s1540/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="image of a clear river flanked by green trees and mountains" border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUwbAKTpAUamiMaZ7sDOxC9QFd2154wVrs_n7ybPZQa1_8p1qNxyyuP8RG-ohwmuO6P1fjLA6iMKNg3NnzTesaM6bB3af8j6ahue5vsfHH4bMH1d_Eup1M8gUJGSOMDEP8tbNycUuBFHr75oq0AHcMz-heGHfn5QWAvmH4Xp72P86thedPUKqMwi6OrbB1/s16000/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-1.jpg" /></a></div><p>After some photos we choose a relatively short path through the forest and marshes. We see ponds tainted deep orange from iron and manganese. We walk along clear streams and all around us lush trees cover the forest bed. The forest itself is dense, except for the path we're walking on. The path is easy and well-maintained, and we stop at several scenic spots to take pictures. At some point we see a sign warning of a black bear sighting two days earlier. This crushes our sense of safety and we rush to close the gap between the hikers in front of us.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3etcJg27sIqps0uOHUja5xQ5So2GbxB0d-8t36WeIPGOMjrb1kHCEhkB9Onsvu6GINyBwd-JKINOj3suTimfvBw9mhzZqBzWXnOME0uHcOC6-RUTpAAzYBwdfx4B_sJryMoVo9qOiiHS4WwtiqP8LE8WRlEbkOHPvmj3dia2Ml4nhuy3IxLpQ00YgVc5W/s1540/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3etcJg27sIqps0uOHUja5xQ5So2GbxB0d-8t36WeIPGOMjrb1kHCEhkB9Onsvu6GINyBwd-JKINOj3suTimfvBw9mhzZqBzWXnOME0uHcOC6-RUTpAAzYBwdfx4B_sJryMoVo9qOiiHS4WwtiqP8LE8WRlEbkOHPvmj3dia2Ml4nhuy3IxLpQ00YgVc5W/s16000/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-5.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv6eILGKg6kgrOrUwe4DVEDeGzY_fcUkGxt-O8VsHG7-0dLul0q87X2hFo7XhZ6z1ZJPAygtuZtD1xNONsRnSP7pFzNU5ZIL6qmVDyrekVF3GTpgfw0WCtkv3JycA3GYIavzzB4ypKkhYzQAGhPm5W8w1dk_efPhLG6kIIyORw_EthzSQ4rlMNsaOoLQd2/s2310/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2310" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv6eILGKg6kgrOrUwe4DVEDeGzY_fcUkGxt-O8VsHG7-0dLul0q87X2hFo7XhZ6z1ZJPAygtuZtD1xNONsRnSP7pFzNU5ZIL6qmVDyrekVF3GTpgfw0WCtkv3JycA3GYIavzzB4ypKkhYzQAGhPm5W8w1dk_efPhLG6kIIyORw_EthzSQ4rlMNsaOoLQd2/s16000/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-7.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGDdOmPByZL8RZAciCErkjcXuSJjKPSqEtVmFGgozbIHqTP71p8KCmf7OCsxYfmxe5q341EFphdSOy4opGCach-Ze2UlONDie4o_0abmyPgL-iDJqbnhZ09Y_2LPUxSSVYdmQ_HPXtKb4IyyzUIgx-vvGikfC5VarK2n4ud_Lv8JZ7O4f3KcmOjT7zANMd/s1540/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGDdOmPByZL8RZAciCErkjcXuSJjKPSqEtVmFGgozbIHqTP71p8KCmf7OCsxYfmxe5q341EFphdSOy4opGCach-Ze2UlONDie4o_0abmyPgL-iDJqbnhZ09Y_2LPUxSSVYdmQ_HPXtKb4IyyzUIgx-vvGikfC5VarK2n4ud_Lv8JZ7O4f3KcmOjT7zANMd/s16000/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-6.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>We're aiming for an easy day hike, so we're headed to Kappa bridge. When we get there, we sit for a lunch of bits and bobs we've picked up. The hike we took takes about an hour and a half; but between photos and stops it's taken us two.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4ie84E8fT7Phv6uN6mZXQpqnG7Vi5O_v1vEt2VoJqp4jchO3MHt3PT-pRVnpLmwLjSiD7WDWxCAB5mPsMc0ZZmczOMWCvK99uCsvFNSU8CybBX8zPeaXyUjImX9KRLjpjedhbl6YWslvKYDX2Pw4fwYb46_D59XPPepdDeA3X7gfSmo-1WuHz3ZpsOiI/s1540/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS4ie84E8fT7Phv6uN6mZXQpqnG7Vi5O_v1vEt2VoJqp4jchO3MHt3PT-pRVnpLmwLjSiD7WDWxCAB5mPsMc0ZZmczOMWCvK99uCsvFNSU8CybBX8zPeaXyUjImX9KRLjpjedhbl6YWslvKYDX2Pw4fwYb46_D59XPPepdDeA3X7gfSmo-1WuHz3ZpsOiI/s16000/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-3.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p>It's a very hot and dry day, so for respite, we walk across the bridge towards the Imperial Hotel. Known locally as the Teikoku hotel, it looks uncannily like Hotel Kusakaru from Studio Ghibli's 'The Wind Rises'.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisl3jktyjEUYiQ74x8Be005BVzSQQlOrqqA_I9u96GTXp_Mk3Q5NkA4Xtz7wqHs5y5WDW0mWcpEeYZDI0R1mARvxxYXtQcWpa_H4EbKlEdyixJzkl6CyEOqikf82okIgPnye3ruzMtySWj6oW6kjCgKXAFv6-o-8WgVQ0grYLyNlkhXf_LvrsvybG5qvvv/s2310/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2310" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisl3jktyjEUYiQ74x8Be005BVzSQQlOrqqA_I9u96GTXp_Mk3Q5NkA4Xtz7wqHs5y5WDW0mWcpEeYZDI0R1mARvxxYXtQcWpa_H4EbKlEdyixJzkl6CyEOqikf82okIgPnye3ruzMtySWj6oW6kjCgKXAFv6-o-8WgVQ0grYLyNlkhXf_LvrsvybG5qvvv/s16000/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-9.jpg" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMCdy6SQuJfyyhztqkwAatrfb4r7b2JrocZocqG73INAiAYSivNRBZpRUa1EiTQKwfQdWwVtYlrvDUKV5SiO72lqKH1gnms3-avmNaf29b6d1BCh9n49CGHl2X_8lwDClS_9lbPs1dDroISODcQnquBIsDhDbuP9oGP-pxtG8y50b80-iQ4Db2LQjg4jY3/s1540/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMCdy6SQuJfyyhztqkwAatrfb4r7b2JrocZocqG73INAiAYSivNRBZpRUa1EiTQKwfQdWwVtYlrvDUKV5SiO72lqKH1gnms3-avmNaf29b6d1BCh9n49CGHl2X_8lwDClS_9lbPs1dDroISODcQnquBIsDhDbuP9oGP-pxtG8y50b80-iQ4Db2LQjg4jY3/s16000/journographie%20travel%20blog%20japan%20-%20kamikochi-11.jpg" /></a></div><p>It's late afternoon. We catch the coach back down to Hirayu and I drive us a couple of hundred metres to Hirayu no mori. This is an inn with dozens of outdoor onsen – indoor thermal baths. And it is the best one I've been to so far: I feel like Eve in Eden's Garden walking around these baths. What with the mountains in the background and all the trees and rocks around...</p><p>I must remember, when I'm back in the locker room, that the courtesy creams in the powder room are for hands and feet – NOT face. I have made that mistake before.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Is Kamikochi Worth a Visit?</h2><p>Absolutely, yes. Kamikochi offers access to the heart of the Northern Japan Alps, which have been shaped in part by glacial activity. It has the most dramatic of landscapes, as the highest rocky mountains loom over azure rivers flanked by lush forests. Kamikochi is best enjoyed in Spring and Autumn. If you want to experience the natural beauty Japan has to offer, it's an unmissable experience.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">When to Visit Kamikochi?</h2><p>The Japanese mountains are most magical during the autumn as the leaves turns golden-amber. This is usually mid-October and can be tracked with an Autumn foliage forecast (google it to follow the forecast each year). Another great time is in May, June and July but beware that this is a higher season and you're likely to encounter more visitors.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">How to Get to Kamikochi?</h2><p><b>By bike: </b>You can get there by bike and go pretty much straight to the heart of it if you're touring Japan by bike (lucky you).</p><p><b>By bus: </b>For the rest of us, you can catch a direct bus from pretty much all the main cities near and far. Kamikochi is connected to Kyoto, Tokyo, Osaka via <a href="https://www.alpico.co.jp/en/timetable/kamikochi/?utm_source=kamikochi.org&utm_medium=banner&utm_campaign=kamikochi_official_global" target="_blank">this line</a>. Or access from Matsumoto or Takayama (60 min bus), or smaller nearer towns. Our bus from Hirayu to Kamikochi took just under 30 mins and cost us about 1500 yen (£9).</p><p><b>By car: </b>We rented a car and stayed the night in Hirayu, then took the bus from Hirayu.</p><p>It's a bit of a long way to get to Kamikochi from the main cities, but fits perfectly as part of a longer itinerary, where you'd include places like Matusmoto, the Nakasendo valley or Takayama.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">How long do you need at Kamikochi?</h2><p>For the ultimate experience, it's best to plan to hike according to your abilities. There are many worthwhile things to see at Kamikochi that you just can't see in a day. Taking camping gear and staying at least one night at one of the campsites within is recommended. However, if you only have the day, that's fine too.</p><p>I would recommend to stay the night in Kamikochi or nearby so you don't have to rush in or out.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">What to see in Kamikochi?</h2><p>There are so many beautiful things to see along your hike in Kamikochi. Here are just but a few of the highlights.</p><p><b>Taisho Ike Pond </b>(大正池), it was formed after a volcanic eruption of nearby Mt. Yakedake in 1915. It's surrounded by lush greenery, with some decayed trees sitting within it. It's clear as a diamond and, on the brightest days, shines azure.</p><p><b>Kappa Bridge</b> (河童橋), a suspension bridge over the Asuza river with goregous views of the river itself, the forest on either bank and the steep snow covered Alps in the North. Easily accessible.</p><p><b>Tashiro Pond</b> (田代池), a small pond surrounded by marshland. It has beautifully delicate flowers surrounding it in the summer; and an understated calming green serenity.</p><p><b>Azusa River </b>(梓川), the main river to follow along. It's got pristine clear waters that give the whole landscape an extra dimension.</p><p><b>Mt. Yake </b>(焼岳), volcano. There's a hiking route from Kamikochi to Yakedake, an active volcano 2,455m above sea level. It can be done as a day trek and it's just about under 9km. </p><p>The official <a href="https://www.kamikochi.org/" target="_blank">Kamikochi</a> website has thorough information for planning your day trip or multi-day hike.</p><p><br /></p>Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-89158177535736863222020-03-15T02:23:00.000+00:002020-03-15T02:46:07.619+00:00Laguna 69 & Eco Lodge Stay: 3 days trekking in Huaraz, Peru<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0YA8tz2zin0/Xm2KVwO1BcI/AAAAAAAAp8U/UgdCnW7OoTMhkkNzezsnkiRqbScdYTVzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Laguna%2B69%2BTrek%2BLlanganuco%2BHuaraz%2BPeru%2BJournographie-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0YA8tz2zin0/Xm2KVwO1BcI/AAAAAAAAp8U/UgdCnW7OoTMhkkNzezsnkiRqbScdYTVzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Laguna%2B69%2BTrek%2BLlanganuco%2BHuaraz%2BPeru%2BJournographie-1.jpg" title="Laguna 69 Huaraz, Peru - 3-day trek diary Journographie.com" /></a></div>
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The most famous trek in Peru is the Inca Trail; it's the one that connects Cuzco to Machu Picchu. But few people know it's part of a massive, ancient, Inca road system that joins many countries. One of the towns on this Andrean highway is Huaraz.<br />
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Huaraz is on the Cordiellra Blanca, a mountain range in Peru. It's home to the Huascaran National Park, and it's an idyllic location to visit as it has some of the best treks in Peru. Nestled between snow-capped mountains and gentle pastoral farmlands is the <a href="https://www.llanganucolodge.com/" target="_blank">Llanganuco Mountain Lodge</a>.<br />
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Arriving at the Lodge</h2>
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Two big bounding doggies emerge out of a squat brick house to greet us. Charlie, the owner, follows behind and greets us with a warm smile.<br />
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His lodge is a labour of love. He had a vision for an off-the-grid, self-sustainable lodge and he has been building it with the help of locals. What he has acheived is a feat. The double room has a little wood fire burner, soft carpet and sheets. Charlie opens the balcony doors on one end of the room, these open up to the most amazing view of the valley.<br />
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Over a cup of Mate de Coca Charlie gives us maps and recomendations. We're about 2,500 metres above sea level, so he explains which treks are easy ones - the ones we could start with.<br />
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<h2>
A Walk to Acclimatise: Atma Hill Trek</h2>
<br />
Charlie gives us a packed lunch of sandwiches, nuts and fruit. We fill our water bottles, then we set off on a walk around the Atma hills.<br />
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At the gate we pass two resident llamas with fluffy hair and protuding bottom teeth. They stare at us as we head off. Just behind the lodge we get our first glimpse of a lake.<br />
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As the soft landscape undulates and we get to each peak, we discover new views. We walk alongside farmland with small holdings and wandering animals. Pigs, goats, donkeys and cows all roam here. We stop for a sit down when it's deserved, which is often.<br />
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We get back way before sunset, about 3 hours after we set off. We grab dinner and cold cans of Cusqueña beer.<br />
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At night the stars come out, all of them! There is no light polution here and we're high up, so the night sky is ablaze with stars and galaxies. We start playing with long exposure photography before going to bed.<br />
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<h2>
Ice of Huandoy</h2>
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The next morning Charlie brings long tables covered in colourful Peruvian tablecloths out to the lawn. We eat a breakfast of scrambled eggs, bread, fruit and coffee outside in the cool morning air.<br />
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We take a path at the back of the lodge and up into the mountain range behind it. The route follows a river all the way to the top. It goes from a dusty path, to gravel, to shale then to rock before reaching the glacier at the summit. During the last stretch we start to get short of breath and have to start taking frequent breaks.<br />
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At one point an elderly gentleman with a big wirey cotton bag full of ice passes us. A strap that stretches across his forehead supports it, and the bag rests on his back. He must have got the ice from the glacier.<br />
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We exchange impressed glances.<br />
<br />
- 'Where are you going?'<br />
<br />
- 'The football tournament,' he replies bounding down the hill away from us without losing pace.<br />
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We exchange confused glances.<br />
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We reach the glacier and relax for longer than we need to, enjoying the views and recovering. We don't see anyone up here the whole time.<br />
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At the bottom we find the football tournament. There, women sell cooked meats, sweetcorn, chicha morada and all sorts of peruvian snacks. The steam from their ovens drifts up into the mountains.<br />
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There's a football tournament in the middle. Players range from young, athletic 20 year olds to pot-bellied 50 or 60-somethings, defying the laws of age, gravity and physics. When the men's tournament is over, the women's starts. It's as vigorous, their long plaited pigtails swinging in the air.<br />
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We fail to notice when the football's ended and the dancing's started. The footballers cool off slumped on the floor or against a buddy, whilst the kids start their own tournament. After a while people drift off like clouds into the hills, and the sun goes down.<br />
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<h2>
Trekking Laguna 69</h2>
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It's the third day and we're trekking to Lake 69, one of the most famous treks in the area, without a guide. We take a taxi to the start of the trail and make our way following a river up into the mountain.<br />
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Having a big mountain in front of you can be decieving as it always looks close and far at the same time. The ascent gets more and more steep and more and more difficult as you go up and combat the gradient and thinner air.<br />
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At one point as the greenery dissipates and the path turns to rock we come across a bull in the middle of the path. We stop, it looks at us, we look at it. Who moves in this situation? Luckily, it did, and we made our way up.<br />
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Finally at the top, we find the infamous lake and it is astounding. That hue of blue... you wouldn't think it was natural. This trek has been pretty long and pretty hard but rewarding.<br />
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There aren't many places left on earth where you feel so close to nature and distant from the modern world. Huaraz is one of them. We hope it can stay like that.<br />
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<br />Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Huaraz, Peru-9.5261154 -77.5287792-9.5887564 -77.6094602 -9.4634744 -77.4480982tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-17191806592588417712020-03-14T02:57:00.002+00:002020-03-14T22:12:23.698+00:00An Alternative Guide to Paracas, Peru<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It's going to be a hot day. We can tell because it's 5AM and the air in Lima is already stagnant and getting heavier with the rising dust. We load up the car moving swiftly and a few minutes later we're on the highway, bound South. We're going to Paracas.<br />
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Up until I was 19 years old, I called Lima my home. I'm a local. Over the years I've done this 3 hour drive so many times: I've been to the <b>Ballestas Islands</b>, the <b>Paracas National Reserve</b>, I've done tubular buggy rides on the sand dunes and Pisco tasting in Ica. Today we're doing something different. Fancy <b>beaches</b>, <b>off-road biking</b> and <b>snorkelling</b>? Read on...<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jIbrSXE16Xo/XmxE4Oe9AlI/AAAAAAAAp4s/3HcxGzeIEL0dgCZDEBpOxn-wXWRGQEd2QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1143" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jIbrSXE16Xo/XmxE4Oe9AlI/AAAAAAAAp4s/3HcxGzeIEL0dgCZDEBpOxn-wXWRGQEd2QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-1.jpg" title="Peru alternative tours Paracas - journographie.com" /></a><br />
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We start our self-guided day trip from Lima and soon we hit our first stop: <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/SGuMtVmKkCaWov9E7" target="_blank">El Buen Horno</a>. This bakery and restaurant is open from 7AM and it's a local's hidden gem. We buy a <i>cafe cortado</i> and a <i>canasta de panes</i> (bread basket). I get a variety of olive bread, garlic and oregano, cheesy bread and sweet potato bread; all of which I scoff down in a few minutes.<br />
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Back in the car and a couple of hours later we are crossing into the Paracas National Reserve. It's quite early so there's no one to take payment at the entrance (S/11 nuevos soles / £2.50). We drive on to our first stop: <b>Playa La Mina</b>.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Ey3X2qwU2c/XmxE9ls-BRI/AAAAAAAAp5g/Qn_ebvY4jfMJajJtFrvHIxSF2w8Hi429QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1143" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2Ey3X2qwU2c/XmxE9ls-BRI/AAAAAAAAp5g/Qn_ebvY4jfMJajJtFrvHIxSF2w8Hi429QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-4.jpg" title="Playa La Mina (beach) Paracas, Peru - journographie" /></a><br />
<h2>
Paracas Beaches</h2>
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On our visit we descend onto <b>La Mina</b> beach so early, it's just us and the widlife here. But with the sun hitting hard we scramble to find some shade. We're walking to <b>El Raspón</b> beach, but as we stop by the edge of the cliff, we spot a cove. Since you can't see it from the paths, we decide it will be our private beach for the day.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mwWHdcYgyYg/XmxE-LKJOSI/AAAAAAAAp5k/JXgQvgCcM2YAI4M2MJSP7FcElkT7CgL0wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="1540" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mwWHdcYgyYg/XmxE-LKJOSI/AAAAAAAAp5k/JXgQvgCcM2YAI4M2MJSP7FcElkT7CgL0wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-6.jpg" title="Beaches in Paracas, Peru - journographie" /></a><br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dJKwXDpxpKA/XmxE-hmC9QI/AAAAAAAAp5o/o1b7PROQEPgisAC8qj6MD73P6ZLZOH9hQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="1540" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dJKwXDpxpKA/XmxE-hmC9QI/AAAAAAAAp5o/o1b7PROQEPgisAC8qj6MD73P6ZLZOH9hQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-7.jpg" title="Playa Raspon. Beaches in Paracas, Peru - journographie" /></a><br />
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1R40KyPv6dg/XmxE-41xK6I/AAAAAAAAp5s/XGne8wPnF8ot6e9oIYdD8DHId9afHBOygCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="1540" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1R40KyPv6dg/XmxE-41xK6I/AAAAAAAAp5s/XGne8wPnF8ot6e9oIYdD8DHId9afHBOygCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-8.jpg" title="El Raspon Beaches in Paracas, Peru - journographie" /></a><br />
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The best way to see the most beautiful beaches in the reserve is to take the Salinas route as you drive through the entrance. Take a right when you see the route to Catedral and you can pretty much follow a route that takes you through Playa <b>Supay</b>, <b>Mirador Catedral</b>, <b>Playa Yumaque</b>, <b>Playa Roja</b>, <b>Lagunillas</b> and then on to <b>El Raspón</b> and <b>La Mina</b>.<br />
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<h2>
A Spot of Lunch</h2>
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After hours of swimming and playing on the rocks on the cove, we jump back in the car and drive to the pier next to <b>Lagunillas</b>. Here there are public toilets and a handful of restaurants. We consult the menu on a couple, but start talking to a fisherman and decide to follow him to the actual pier, where we get a dish of <b>Ceviche</b> for a third of the price. Today, this'll do for us.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ANdEa8ZtZEU/XmxE5WT-oRI/AAAAAAAAp4w/TSExnIY6BqUfGB5IWoeSXprELZO6MES4gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1143" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ANdEa8ZtZEU/XmxE5WT-oRI/AAAAAAAAp4w/TSExnIY6BqUfGB5IWoeSXprELZO6MES4gCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-12.jpg" title="Fishermen Pier Lagunillas. Beaches in Paracas, Peru. Journographie.com" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GvIwgkeTfLg/XmxE5nLAYVI/AAAAAAAAp40/6yN9g_ONAvkxvS08hKLBn8MzGUbKJIEdACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GvIwgkeTfLg/XmxE5nLAYVI/AAAAAAAAp40/6yN9g_ONAvkxvS08hKLBn8MzGUbKJIEdACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-14.jpg" title="Ceviche Pier Lagunillas. Beaches in Paracas, Peru. Journographie.com" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NRePmIY3knY/XmxE6THsUPI/AAAAAAAAp48/2s-DPE-Ls9csMmjT0kc22FtpIsmjQUV5QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NRePmIY3knY/XmxE6THsUPI/AAAAAAAAp48/2s-DPE-Ls9csMmjT0kc22FtpIsmjQUV5QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-15.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8_S4Ag2cuWU/XmxE628yYjI/AAAAAAAAp5A/V-PNxm3a7jwuyzzYFeyYYlDjPes8jHScQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1143" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8_S4Ag2cuWU/XmxE628yYjI/AAAAAAAAp5A/V-PNxm3a7jwuyzzYFeyYYlDjPes8jHScQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-16.jpg" title="Fishermen Pier Lagunillas. Beaches in Paracas, Peru. Journographie.com" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MMr4hGJJY5k/XmxE7KUjErI/AAAAAAAAp5E/W0GoT7wJt74wI4Om-6jhasHq5Lu4srxdACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MMr4hGJJY5k/XmxE7KUjErI/AAAAAAAAp5E/W0GoT7wJt74wI4Om-6jhasHq5Lu4srxdACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-17.jpg" title="Ceviche Pier Lagunillas. Beaches in Paracas, Peru. Journographie.com" /></a></div>
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Other great places to grab lunch are <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/FodYdiyLVzj95fGJA" target="_blank">Pukasoncco</a> (vegan-friendly) and <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/3soatxZBgrp2M1yA6" target="_blank">Miski's</a>, both in Paracas downtown.</div>
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<h2>
What to do in Paracas</h2>
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The Paracas National Reserve</h4>
The Paracas National Reserve protects desert, ocean, islands, the peninsula and their biodiversity. The Reserve is home to over 1500 species of flora, algae, reptiles, birds, mammals, fish, molluscs, and invertebrae.<br />
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But what fewer visitors know is that the Paracas culture lived here more than 2000 years before the Incas ruled the Andes. The Paracas accompished incredible things, such as brain surgery (over 70% success rate!) and had incredible textiles including the famous <a href="https://www.museolarco.org/en/exhibition/permanent-exhibition/masterpieces/paracas-mantle/">Paracas Mantle</a>.<br />
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The #1 reason most visitors go to Paracas is for a <a href="https://www.viator.com/Paracas/d23785-ttd/p-180851P2?eap=journographie-peru-82617">2 hour tour of the Ballestas Islands </a>where they get to see the incredible wildlife and the famous Candelabra (a prehistoric geoglyph). Totally worth it. We've just been exploring the beaches, but let's skip to the lesser-known adventures...<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MAbuUV5whzk/XmxE5mou3xI/AAAAAAAAp44/mm1U3FANcEgs1SxFWGo1s_LpRHM3wrvbwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MAbuUV5whzk/XmxE5mou3xI/AAAAAAAAp44/mm1U3FANcEgs1SxFWGo1s_LpRHM3wrvbwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-13.jpg" title="Paracas Natural Reserve. Alternative Paracas. Journographie.com" /></a><br />
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Sand Dunes Buggy Tour</h4>
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Racing through the dunes at full speed in a buggy is one of the most exhilarating experiences I've ever had. Often done at sunset, it feels like you're on a free-falling roller coaster, but with incredible views. <a href="https://www.viator.com/Paracas/d23785-ttd/p-14547P13?eap=journographie-peru-82617" target="_blank">Here's a Buggy experience I recommend.</a><br />
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<h4>
Self-guided Bike Tours</h4>
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A bunch of bike rental businesses operate in Paracas. If you are staying in the area you can scope out which ones have bikes available that work for you. Negotiate, the rate should be around S/25 per day, and agree a pick up time for the following day. Make sure to test the bikes (tyres, suspension, brakes, gears should all be in working order) and get a map of the Reserve. I recommend departing early, around 7AM, and taking breaks when the sun gets too hot. Ensure you bring enough water, sunscreen and shade with you - big hats are a must!<br />
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Snorkelling and Diving in Paracas</h4>
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Surprisingly, Paracas has azurre, almost turquoise waters and is one of the best places in Peru to practice diving. Divers and snorkellers gather early for a 2.5 hour diving and snorkelling session (around $200 - $350; but depending on demand, you can get up to 70% off). They often visit La Mina or Mendieta beaches. Tours can be booked with local companies such as <a href="https://www.playarojatours.com/en/buceo-snorkeling-en-paracas/" target="_blank">Playa Roja tours</a> and previous experience is not required, since they can provide your first lessons there. These beaches have almost no waves and the depths will depend on your experience.<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LbzsYu-xOn0/XmxE4EUQScI/AAAAAAAAp4k/_N9FTVTnN_UgbbycvmAFZN9R-X9dI-3ugCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="1540" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LbzsYu-xOn0/XmxE4EUQScI/AAAAAAAAp4k/_N9FTVTnN_UgbbycvmAFZN9R-X9dI-3ugCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-11.jpg" title="Paracas Natural Reserve. Alternative Paracas. Journographie.com" /></a><br />
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<h4>
Kitesurfing and Windsurfing in Paracas</h4>
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Paracas has some of the best beaches for kitesurfing and windsurfing. I first learned about this on a Channel 5 documentary, New Lives in the Wild, following a British couple who had retired to Paracas and built a kite surfing school, <a href="https://perukite.com/" target="_blank">Peru Kite</a>. They have now built an impressive business with lessons, rentals, trips and even accommodation. They stock the latest and safest products and have professional staff on hand at all times both for lessons and rescue. Full kit rental starts at $70 per day.<br />
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Other activities</h4>
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<a href="https://paracasesaventura.com/tour/parapente-paracas/" target="_blank">Paragliding off Supay and Cerro Mirador</a>, <a href="https://paracasesaventura.com/tour/catamaran-paracas/" target="_blank">catamaran sailing</a>, and <a href="https://paracasesaventura.com/tour/sombras-doradas-trek/" target="_blank">guided treks</a> can all be done in Paracas.<br />
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Pisco and Wine Tasting</h4>
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Beyond these activities, you can also enjoy wine tasting and Pisco tasting if you don't mind going a little farther East. Catch a bus from Paracas to Ica (1.5 hours) and then get a taxi to <a href="http://www.tacama.com/en/visit-us.html" target="_blank">Viña Tacama</a>, a well-known Peruvian vineyard. Here you can sample wines (tours include guided walks within the grounds and wine-tasting of up to 4 wines, S/30 - 65 soles). We opted to enjoy a glass of rose at the vineyard and head over to <a href="https://g.page/ElCatadorPeru?share" target="_blank">El Catador </a>for our Pisco tasting.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yk75gFLVasQ/XmxE7cVxPYI/AAAAAAAAp5I/ZDeZD1PwhH8w9u_g-iGNfsYr6dOXttX1ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yk75gFLVasQ/XmxE7cVxPYI/AAAAAAAAp5I/ZDeZD1PwhH8w9u_g-iGNfsYr6dOXttX1ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-18.jpg" title="Tacama Wine Vineyard. Ica, Peru. Journographie.com" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JgyZv3odmKE/XmxE8HOyRgI/AAAAAAAAp5M/jndzQ-cqR3oTcwcaohtmyXQfA0xVzW4oACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JgyZv3odmKE/XmxE8HOyRgI/AAAAAAAAp5M/jndzQ-cqR3oTcwcaohtmyXQfA0xVzW4oACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-19.jpg" title="Tacama Wine Vineyard. Ica, Peru. Journographie.com" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Do1tjkrFk9g/XmxE8bPmffI/AAAAAAAAp5U/RPyfhG19IWkTZrd-GYfPS6rsft0xHswlgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Do1tjkrFk9g/XmxE8bPmffI/AAAAAAAAp5U/RPyfhG19IWkTZrd-GYfPS6rsft0xHswlgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Alternative%2BGuide%2Bto%2BParacas-20.jpg" title="Tacama Wine Vineyard. Ica, Peru. Journographie.com" /></a></div>
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Visit the Museo Julio C. Tello</h4>
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This <a href="https://museamos.cultura.pe/museos/museo-de-sitio-julio-c-tello-de-paracas" target="_blank">museum</a> was awarded Best New Museum in Latin America by London's 'Leading Culture Destinations Awards 2018'. It aims to educate guests around the Paracas Culture, one of the most extraordinary prehispanic societies to have lived in Peru. Entry is S/7.50 soles.<br />
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The museum was recently re-designed following earthquake damages and today houses over 120 pieces of textiles, ceramics and utensils. It's also home to skulls where one can clearly see the trepanations (brain surgery) carried out.<br />
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How to get to Paracas</h2>
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Paracas is a 4 hour coach ride from Lima. You can get tickets online on <a href="https://www.perubus.com.pe/en/" target="_blank">PeruBus</a> for S/45 soles / £10 and use an e-ticket / email confirmation to board. You'll need your passport handy!<br />
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If you'd prefer private transport I highly recommend VenTaxi, which I personally use for work trips. It's a small business run by 2 brothers-in-law. They have the latest fleet and it's definitely more on the luxurious side. You can get a quote via Whatsapp (this is how everything is done in Peru) - get in touch with Elvin on +51 920 838 297.<br />
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When to go</h2>
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Paracas has subtropical arid desert weather. The best time to visit is between December and April - the summer months - when the average is 22 degrees Celsius.<br />
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Fun fact: Paracas actually means sand rain in Quechua (one of Peru's official languages), because of the typical winds of the area, which blow cool air from the sea onto the desert, lifting the sand.<br />
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Where to stay</h2>
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On the 'luxurious' side is the classic <a href="https://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/piolc-hotel-paracas-a-luxury-collection-resort-paracas/" target="_blank">Paracas Hotel</a>. Whilst I wouldn't count it as a 5-star hotel, it is a classic, having stood there since as long as I can remember. It has a family beach club vibe and it's great for relaxing after all the day's activities. For a more chill and down-to-earth vibe, stay at <a href="https://www.hostelkokopelli.com/" target="_blank">Kokopelli</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bg0SgSJAWh4/XmxN2LjhFBI/AAAAAAAAp6Y/fXxlh0wym4oK9gAjANiTyN3GtbnAerB-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Journographie%2B-%2BPinterest.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1000" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bg0SgSJAWh4/XmxN2LjhFBI/AAAAAAAAp6Y/fXxlh0wym4oK9gAjANiTyN3GtbnAerB-ACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Journographie%2B-%2BPinterest.png" title="An Alternative Guide to Paracas. Journographie.com" width="425" /></a></div>
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Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Paracas, Peru-13.8409149 -76.2508304-13.9025869 -76.3315114 -13.7792429 -76.1701494tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-37639425551896353082020-03-13T01:27:00.000+00:002020-03-13T01:27:27.381+00:00Naoshima: Cycling Japan's Art Island<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Naoshima is an island in the Seto Inland Sea, famous for its contemporary art and the superb Benesse House Museum. But this island offers an intense surreal experience for more than just the art-lovers...<br />
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It's a hazy but bright day. From the ferry we can already see how tranquil and peaceful the horizon is, giving us a sense for what the island might feel like. The sea is a strange blue, deeper, and it has no waves. Is this real life or are we in a dream?<br />
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Art on the Island</h2>
On arriving, we hire some bikes at a shed across from the ferry office. This will later turn out to be a big mistake. There are some big hills in Naoshima, and today is... well, "scorchio!" We should have gone for motorised bikes (<a href="https://www.govoyagin.com/activities/japan-okayama-tour-naoshima-island-contemporary-art-electric-bike/11378?acode=journographie" target="_blank">you can prebook yours online here</a>)<br />
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Never mind. Map in hand, we're off.<br />
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Our first stop is nearby: The Naoshima Pavilion by Sou Fujimoto.<br />
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Naoshima has tons of sculptures and art pieces scattered around the island, but what's great about it (aside from their inherent beauty) is that they act as a perfect excuse even for the casual tourist to explore this beautiful island. Most of the pieces can be interacted with. Touched... jumped on, even.<br />
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A couple of famous pieces are by Yayoi Kusama. The picture below is of her Red Pumpkin, but she also had a larger pumpkin on the opposite side of the island. Yayoi is famous for her dotted art. Suffering from hallucinations from a young age, she used art as a release. Her work is now known the world-over.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8DetTlRYeLM/W2yUUIjB_4I/AAAAAAAARW0/2q3yZd5nyvwMuGMuX__CgXCHOgmg5552wCLcBGAs/s1600/japan-naoshima-island-by-bike-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8DetTlRYeLM/W2yUUIjB_4I/AAAAAAAARW0/2q3yZd5nyvwMuGMuX__CgXCHOgmg5552wCLcBGAs/s1600/japan-naoshima-island-by-bike-7.jpg" /></a><br />
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There's something to be said about cycling to more remote parts of the island where one can't hear much other than the wind and the sea lapping against the shore. As we do this, and without warning, we find odd large shapes scattered about. This gives the island the feel of an alternative reality or sci-fi location. The shapes are often random pieces of art - and they are huge! I'm not a fan of contemporary art but this whole concept gives Naoshima an eerie feel of surrealism that I am finding alluring.<br />
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<h2>
Cycling Around Naoshima</h2>
The road towards the Benesse House Museum has steep slopes but also some of the most rewarding views. We take this road with our bikes and pass clusters upon clusters of old little houses before coming to a high point on the road where we leave our bikes and continue afoot.<br />
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A good Naoshima Island Map can be found <a href="http://www.naoshima.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/b7ffc60d9a2770a3705d40e4d45261ce.pdf">here</a>. We took the road from Miyanoura port (West) towards Chichu Art Museum (South). The views were stunning...<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8B886cTV5SU/W2yURiaC30I/AAAAAAAARWI/SvzCpaCSkZQjMk2FvbYHliHei_8-7Yg3QCLcBGAs/s1600/japan-naoshima-island-by-bike-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8B886cTV5SU/W2yURiaC30I/AAAAAAAARWI/SvzCpaCSkZQjMk2FvbYHliHei_8-7Yg3QCLcBGAs/s1600/japan-naoshima-island-by-bike-13.jpg" /></a><br />
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Though the road continues upwards, we decide to descend to the beach. The day is hot, after all, and the sun is hitting hard. We simply have to get at least our feet wet.<br />
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<h4>
↠<a href="https://www.govoyagin.com/activities/japan-okayama-tour-naoshima-island-contemporary-art-electric-bike/11378?acode=journographie" target="_blank">Prebook electric bikes in Naoshima</a></h4>
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<h2>
What to do in Naoshima</h2>
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Naoshima island is home to a handful of art museums and movements including <a href="http://benesse-artsite.jp/en/art/arthouse.html">Art House Project</a>, <a href="http://benesse-artsite.jp/en/art/benessehouse-museum.html">Benesse House Museum</a>, <a href="http://benesse-artsite.jp/en/art/chichu.html">Chichu Art Museum</a> and <a href="http://benesse-artsite.jp/en/art/lee-ufan.html">Lee Ufan Museum</a>. We choose to see Benesse (because it is the only one open on this particular day). It small yet impressive beyond words.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XeTlTqtspUQ/W2yUSlQtMbI/AAAAAAAARWU/BVO5sub8KZgBHox6KlWOHJ06bBYkweKzACLcBGAs/s1600/japan-naoshima-island-by-bike-16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XeTlTqtspUQ/W2yUSlQtMbI/AAAAAAAARWU/BVO5sub8KZgBHox6KlWOHJ06bBYkweKzACLcBGAs/s1600/japan-naoshima-island-by-bike-16.jpg" title="Benesse House Museum" /></a><br />
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I did not take any pictures inside. The atmosphere was so calming that we wanted to immerse ourselves. The following images are from <a href="http://benesse-artsite.jp/en/art/benessehouse-museum.html">http://benesse-artsite.jp/en/art/benessehouse-museum.html</a><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6PXCnPfN4MA/W2yW-Ps3DrI/AAAAAAAARYA/tPn7QbPSGB0-VdY8QstvoPwQsS2-H28agCEwYBhgL/s1600/benessehousemuseum-thumb-1440x960-2490.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1440" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6PXCnPfN4MA/W2yW-Ps3DrI/AAAAAAAARYA/tPn7QbPSGB0-VdY8QstvoPwQsS2-H28agCEwYBhgL/s1600/benessehousemuseum-thumb-1440x960-2490.jpg" title="Benesse House Museum, image from http://benesse-artsite.jp/en/art/benessehouse-museum.html" /></a><br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RpiMEoyTvqg/W2yW91ph0dI/AAAAAAAARX8/0i1o4lADhSU0dpjEYIExj9nLaodIj4E5wCEwYBhgL/s1600/Benesse%2BHouse%2BMuseum.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="638" data-original-width="960" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RpiMEoyTvqg/W2yW91ph0dI/AAAAAAAARX8/0i1o4lADhSU0dpjEYIExj9nLaodIj4E5wCEwYBhgL/s1600/Benesse%2BHouse%2BMuseum.jpg" title="Benesse House Museum. Image from http://benesse-artsite.jp/en/art/benessehouse-museum.html" /></a><br />
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Exiting Benesse House, we feel a bizarre sense of calm - not a feeling we're accustomed to associating with museums or galleries.<br />
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We make our way around the island to continue exploring the rest of the sculptures.<br />
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Another Yayoi Kusama Pumpkin:<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EAewxKRPZGs/W2yUS8iJKQI/AAAAAAAARWY/pWuqTxiSuPsQXqqBWlQs6Bg9grf2yIdtgCLcBGAs/s1600/japan-naoshima-island-by-bike-17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-EAewxKRPZGs/W2yUS8iJKQI/AAAAAAAARWY/pWuqTxiSuPsQXqqBWlQs6Bg9grf2yIdtgCLcBGAs/s1600/japan-naoshima-island-by-bike-17.jpg" /></a><br />
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Three Squares by George Rickey:<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PyhQc_VXtIw/W2yUSzUrdkI/AAAAAAAARWc/-FCqzV7-gpsAIqYtfk8cWkPN9VmZWbRggCLcBGAs/s1600/japan-naoshima-island-by-bike-18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PyhQc_VXtIw/W2yUSzUrdkI/AAAAAAAARWc/-FCqzV7-gpsAIqYtfk8cWkPN9VmZWbRggCLcBGAs/s1600/japan-naoshima-island-by-bike-18.jpg" /></a><br />
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These ones reflect the brightness of the sky and sway to and fro with the wind.<br />
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I would have liked to see more of the sculptures but the hilly road has taken its toll on us.<br />
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After playing with some of the sculptures we hike back to our bikes and slowly make our descent back to civilisation and to Miyanoura port. Here we stop by a 7-eleven, buy some pre-packed seafood udon soup and promptly board our ferry to continue our journey onwards.<br />
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As we sip on our hot convenience-store meal and stare out into the Seto Inland Sea I think to myself, 'today was a good day'.<br />
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<h2>
How to get to Naoshima Island</h2>
We did Naoshima as a day trip from Okayama. Naoshima is very easy to reach from there. Take the Uno line (1hr) to Uno and then just buy a ticket to Naoshima at the ticket office - just across from the ferry port (all walking distance). The ferry departs some minutes after the train arrives, leaving ample time to sort out tickets and board. We took the ferry to Miyanoura (20 min).Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Naoshima, Kagawa District, Kagawa Prefecture 761-3110, Japan34.4597032 133.9956893999999534.3549832 133.83432789999995 34.5644232 134.15705089999994tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-55451739465515161192020-03-11T04:02:00.000+00:002020-03-11T04:02:26.411+00:00Tokyo Travel: Is it still worth going to Tsukiji Fish Market?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OZMTc2Vk80U/XmhhKVNfPWI/AAAAAAAAp3o/MK8gpPa_mgENaR9pWFYybwUcRwtcaT07ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OZMTc2Vk80U/XmhhKVNfPWI/AAAAAAAAp3o/MK8gpPa_mgENaR9pWFYybwUcRwtcaT07ACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-6.jpg" /></a></div>
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The Tsukiji fish market was known for 2 things: being probably the largest wholesale fish market in the world, and its world-famous tuna auction - a glimpse of which we can see in the 2011 documentari Jiro Dreams of Sushi.<br />
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<h2>
Is Tsukiji market still open?</h2>
The wholesale market - known as the inner market - where the tuna auction was held every morning, has been closed since October 6 2018 and relocated to Toyosu market. However the outer market is still open. It spans several streets of restaurants, fresh food stalls, wholesale professional and retail consumer goods stores (including some of the best knives shops) and produce. If you love food and cooking, it's a must!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DAFFXfO9JiA/XmhhJyc3ZiI/AAAAAAAAp3g/y1wNTbL5ufg1HeYzQpnqC8ly0FWhZhD5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DAFFXfO9JiA/XmhhJyc3ZiI/AAAAAAAAp3g/y1wNTbL5ufg1HeYzQpnqC8ly0FWhZhD5wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-4.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bluefin tuna is an endangered species</td></tr>
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<h2>
What is Tsukiji Market like in 2020?</h2>
The outer market is nowhere near as crowded as the inner market used to be. It is an enjoyable market to stroll about, especially in the morning, when fresh fish is delivered from Toyosu market and can be enjoyed in many stalls. Thanks to the variety of the food on offer, it's a great place to try different Japanese street foods - with many food tours offering a guided experience. It's also a great little area to potter about in the kitchenware shops.<br />
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Prices are not cheap (for street food or kitchenware!). Skip altogether if you're vegan.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4AB9gcS-8Pw/XmhhIaghepI/AAAAAAAAp3Y/8O0lGaCHmcwogHBhVO9prza03YTNhKHFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Shop keeper bags produce up at Tsukiji Fish Market" border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4AB9gcS-8Pw/XmhhIaghepI/AAAAAAAAp3Y/8O0lGaCHmcwogHBhVO9prza03YTNhKHFwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-2.jpg" title="Is it still worth going to Tsukiji fish market in 2020?" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IvKEciMqzLM/XmhhITulVeI/AAAAAAAAp3U/lYdDtSAnrO4QMMQjSCxnuAGGEhhUtVEPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Bagged produce shop at Tsukiji Fish Market" border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IvKEciMqzLM/XmhhITulVeI/AAAAAAAAp3U/lYdDtSAnrO4QMMQjSCxnuAGGEhhUtVEPgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-1.jpg" title="Tsukiji Fish Market" /></a><br />
<h2>
What to do in Tsukiji market?</h2>
Get there early for a wander and breakfast, or book a food tour with a culinary expert (we recommend <a href="https://www.contexttravel.com/cities/tokyo/tours/tokyo-food-tour-savoring-tsukiji-outer-market" target="_blank">Context Travel's tours</a>, led by professionals in their fields). Or skip food altogether and head to the many kitchenware shops to get professional-grade tools: some long-established knife shops can be found at Tsukiji. Check out Tsukiji Masamoto, Aritsugu Tokyo or Azuma monamoto no Masahisa. Do a bit of research online on the best type of knife for you, since English is not widely spoken.<br />
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The best times to go are between 9AM - 2PM, but bear in mind many shops close on Wednesdays and Sundays. Bringing cash is a must, since Japan is still largely a cash society.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EJ4ZJ7qi-3k/XmhhKPilfVI/AAAAAAAAp3k/mDxpkpqLRRMWa6ptj-erkaneCxxkgagMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Couple stare at a market stall at Japan's tsukiji fish market" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EJ4ZJ7qi-3k/XmhhKPilfVI/AAAAAAAAp3k/mDxpkpqLRRMWa6ptj-erkaneCxxkgagMgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-5.jpg" title="Tsukiji Fish Market 2020" /></a><br />
<h2>
Sustainability</h2>
If you love sushi and seafood it's worth knowing <a href="https://www.worldwildlife.org/species/bluefin-tuna" target="_blank">bluefin tuna</a> is an endangered species. You can also check out this guide by Tokyo Cheapo to <a href="https://tokyocheapo.com/food-and-drink/sustainable-sushi-in-japan/" target="_blank">sustainable sushi choices</a>. However, if we dig deep, all seafood consumption in Japan is really unsustainable - there is no way the fish industry can keep up with seafood demand at current rates without overfishing, depleting some fish species and causing high pollution levels in the water.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EfP3149r_4E/XmhhLHU5VQI/AAAAAAAAp3s/wngJUOmkZXUul6kAr3YoLxnMAjyv-nwZACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Delivery man at Tsukiji fish market packing a bike" border="0" data-original-height="1027" data-original-width="1540" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EfP3149r_4E/XmhhLHU5VQI/AAAAAAAAp3s/wngJUOmkZXUul6kAr3YoLxnMAjyv-nwZACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tsukiji-fish-market-2020-7.jpg" title="Tsukiji Fish Market" /></a><br />
<br />Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Tokyo, Japan35.6761919 139.650310621.4479664 118.99601360000001 49.9044174 160.3046076tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-50825281754501517792020-02-10T16:36:00.000+00:002020-02-11T00:14:05.253+00:00A Walk in Totoro's Forest - Sayama Hills Day Trip from Tokyo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-47Wbk3wNkNw/W2bNpFy9eII/AAAAAAAAREo/dpR1CsSLoWAjOeSHYNSbkgvbAYjJOFNRQCLcBGAs/s1600/Sayama-Hills-Totoro-Forest-Japan-Tokyo-Day-Trip-10.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-47Wbk3wNkNw/W2bNpFy9eII/AAAAAAAAREo/dpR1CsSLoWAjOeSHYNSbkgvbAYjJOFNRQCLcBGAs/s1600/Sayama-Hills-Totoro-Forest-Japan-Tokyo-Day-Trip-10.jpg" /></a></div>
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Under the thick shadow of overgrown trees, mosquitoes stick to my skin as we hike up a hill. The air is dense with moisture and the heat, almost unbearable. The buzzing of cicadas threatens to deafen us. I smile. We're in Totoro's Forest.<br />
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We drove here from our little guesthouse in Akasaka, Tokyo in under an hour. We're on a road trip to the incredibly picturesque town of Yamanouchi but I want a break in the drive. The Sayama Hills are spot on.<br />
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<h2>
The Sayama Hills</h2>
Just North-west of Tokyo lush forests, farmlands, rice fields and woods surround the Sayama and Tama lakes. Golfing, cycling, indoor skiing and other activities are all on offer here. A handful of small shrines and Buddhist temples can be found nearby. But the true joy is in walking through this traditional Japanese landscape, the edge between rolling hills and farmland, the 'Satoyama'.<br />
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Totoro's Forest is the name given to a collection of forests in this area, presumably because they inspired the backdrop for Miyazaki's film My Neighbour Totoro. Since Chris and I are hardcore Studio Ghibli fans, a visit to the Sayama Hills is a no-brainer.<br />
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<h2>
Into Totoro's Forest</h2>
We've parked the car on a dirt road behind us and after stopping briefly at a sign at the entrance of the forest, we're making our way up a path.<br />
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We come to a set of steps indented onto the side of the hill. We climb up and follow the path up and around several farmlands.<br />
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The greenery is dense, it's hard to believe we're so close to one of the largest cities in the world. Here, we're in a world of our own.<br />
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We arrive at a shrine 'Horigushi Tenman' and take a breather. It's not an arduous walk by any means, but the heat, the mosquitos and the humidity are palpable.<br />
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<h2>
Kurosuke House</h2>
On our way down we meet an Aussie - Mel. She's heading up for the hike, the first person we've seen since we arrived here. She asks us about the path ahead and we part ways. As Chris and I get onto the car and I start pulling off, I can see her running back to us on the rearview mirror.<br />
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She's against the walk. By this point, it's very hot, and she wants to see Kurosuke House. "That's where we're headed!," I say. "Climb in".<br />
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The Sayama Hills are under threat from deforestation and illegal dumping. To prevent this, a charitable trust called the Totoro Foundation has been working with donated funds to buy and preserve these forests. Some years ago the Foundation bought a hundred-year-old house, restored it, and gave it the name Kurosuke House (Kurosuke are the little black dust creatures in the Totoro and Spirited away films that only children can see).<br />
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On this hot day, we find a group of elder Japanese visitors sitting on the engawa verandas - those bits of wooden terrace surrounding Japanese houses. They're having lunch and sipping on hot drinks. They smile at us as we approach.<br />
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The house is impressive, and we can spot a little something special waiting for us here.<br />
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Once inside, we kick off our shoes and take a look around, exploring to our hearts' content.<br />
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Even the garden is scenic.<br />
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When we've had a good look around every corner of the house and made some new Japanese friends Chris buys a postcard for me and a white and pink Totoro t-shirt for himself. Then, it's time to be on the road again.<br />
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But not before I get a picture with Totoro.<br />
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How to get to Totoro's Forest</h2>
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A train from Tokyo gets you to Seibu-Kyūjō-mae station in under an hour. From here, it's a 25-minute walk to the forest. From Tokyo, take the Seibu Ikebukuro Line from Ikebukuro Station to Nishi-Tokorozawa, and change lines to Seibu Sayama Line. </div>
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We drove from Akasaka in about an hour, on our way to Yamanouchi town in Nagano (Snow Monkeys Mountain). It provided the perfect spot for breaking the drive, as it was on the way. </div>
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Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Totoro's Forest, 雑魚入-351 Kamiyamaguchi, Tokorozawa, Saitama Prefecture 359-1153, Japan35.780184 139.421853815.366669499999997 98.113259800000009 56.193698499999996 -179.26955220000002tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-46925860703945393322018-08-15T17:41:00.000+01:002018-08-18T20:02:41.375+01:008 Tips To Know Before You Go to Japan<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Booked a trip to Japan? Here's what you need to know before you go.<br />
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#1 Get the JR Rail Pass</h2>
It will allow you to cover massive distances in very short time - SO worth it when you consider Japan is a large country with VERY different cities and counties. There are 7, 14 and 21 day passes, and you only have to activate it on the first day you are going to use the pass, so you can stay in one city a few days before you activate it. You must get the JR pass before you enter Japan. Here’s the <a href="https://www.jrailpass.com/?utm_source=aff&utm_medium=cpa&utm_campaign=nerdnomads&affiliate=nerdnomads">JR pass</a> website with info.<br />
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#2 Get a Wifi dongle</h2>
It’s very hard to find wifi spots in Japan – the most reliable way to always be connected is to hire a personal wifi dongle from websites such as <a href="http://japan-wireless.com/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwi7vIBRDpo9W8y7Ct6ZcBEiQA1CwV2P_A7EJNAMJwuoOCwKRaKhFMsS8TR1sFy03ZjvaKEL0aAgOu8P8HAQ">these</a>. You order and pay before hand and can decide where you want the dongle to be shipped (e.g. your hotel) or pick up at the airport. When you’re leaving Japan, simply pop it in the post box at the airport.<br />
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#3 Download offline maps & Google translate</h2>
Most places in Japan don’t name things in English. Maps, menus, names of restaurants will be all in Japanese. Having an offline version of the cities you’re going to visit plus Google translate will get you out of any situation.<br />
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#4 Download Hyperdia</h2>
A great app showing you all the information you will need for travel, including times, platforms and stops for JR trains and subway alike.<br />
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#5 Read how to do “Onsens”</h2>
Read online about <a href="http://www.journographie.com/2017/03/Japan-Onsen-Experience-in-Yufuin.html">what to do and not to do in an Onsen</a>. Also, read about bath culture in Japan, as most hotels you will stay at will have a public bath which they will offer to run you a bath on. Say yes! It’s a fantastic experience.<br />
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#6 Book at least one Ryokan</h2>
If you can, book more. Ryokans are Japanese traditional hotels and guesthouses, but you will be surprised at how much more comfortable their futons are to our western beds. Do the bath / sleep routine and you will sleep like baby.<br />
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#7 Take a gift</h2>
Or a few. Just chocolate bars or something like that. When someone does something nice for you (in a hotel they might be super accommodating, or help you find something… or a restaurant maitre d’ might give you an umbrella to take with you if it’s raining outside).<br />
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#8 If you plan on driving, you will need an international driving permit.</h2>
Been there, been burnt.Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-50221734112502409442018-08-08T20:37:00.000+01:002018-08-18T20:04:31.417+01:00Discovering Machu Picchu: A Travel Photo Diary<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dNPaiotaiD8/W0-YCY15iBI/AAAAAAAAQHo/i9szntkFKbYpHspmDg3pJgne3r4vRLMxACLcBGAs/s1600/machu-picchu-travel-blog-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="719" data-original-width="1080" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dNPaiotaiD8/W0-YCY15iBI/AAAAAAAAQHo/i9szntkFKbYpHspmDg3pJgne3r4vRLMxACLcBGAs/s1600/machu-picchu-travel-blog-6.jpg" /></a><br />
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Today we visit a deeply mystical land nestled 2.4km above sea level in the Urubamba Valley, South of Peru. This is our photo diary of Machu Picchu.<br />
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It was the Incas who built Machu Picchu in the 15th century - probably for the Inca and the elite to live in, or as a retreat. The ingenuity and craftsmanship in building it is outstanding - the Incas had no wheels, iron tools or draft animals.<br />
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<h4>
Before you read on, here are some other things we did in Peru:</h4>
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<ul>
<li><a href="https://www.journographie.com/2018/07/7-things-to-do-lima-historic-centre.html">The secret walk every Limenian does when showing friends Lima's City Centre</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.journographie.com/2018/07/8-things-to-do-in-Arequipa.html">8 Insane things you didn't know you could do in Arequipa besides visiting the Colca Canyon</a></li>
<li><a href="https://www.journographie.com/2018/05/responsible-travel-amazon-jungle-peru.html">3 Days in the Deepest of the Peruvian Amazon learning about local flora, fauna & meeting tribes</a></li>
<li><a href="https://mailchi.mp/fa0e36604082/freeguidetoperu" target="_blank">Or you can download our free 1-page PDF guide to Peru - everything you need to know in your pocket</a><span id="goog_1274528606"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_1274528607"></span></li>
</ul>
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Though the Spanish never found Machu Picchu, it's thought that smallpox brought in from Europe wiped its last inhabitants out. The place remained untouched for centuries until an 11 year old local boy showed it to Hiram Bingham.<br />
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Getting here is straightforward. A short flight from Lima (just over an hour) took us to Cusco, where we stayed 3 days to acclimatise and <a href="https://journographietravel.blogspot.com/2018/08/insiders-guide-to-cusco.html" target="_blank">explore the town like locals</a>. We thoroughly recommend you do the same. From Cusco you can either do the Inca Trail (82km) or, like us, you can take the British-owned Peru Rail to Aguas Calientes (also known as Machu Picchu city).<br />
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Aguas Calientes ('hot waters', for the hot springs you can find here), is like a town built around a huge market, next to a railroad. On the one side you have all the restaurants, hostels and massage parlours packed in - almost on top of each other. And on the other side of town, across the bridge, the mega-luxurious Casa Andina hotel (still keeping in with traditions in architecture), which is a harsh juxtaposition to the life you see beneath.<br />
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We arrived in the town late last night. Today we have two options to get to Machu Picchu and we've chosen the eco-friendly one: walking. The alternative is a smog-spewing coach that will set you back at least a dozen dollars and then some.<br />
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'Let's walk there'. This is easier said than done. It's early afternoon and the sun is now decidedly out.<br />
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Considering we've spent a few days acclimatising to the altitude in Cusco, we're not doing great. There's a 15 minute rest for every few steps we take. The rock stairs are shallow at the start but become extremely steep and the oxygen, thin. Maybe that's why we're being so silly.<br />
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After an hour and a half, we've made it to the top! We're so excited to see what all the fuss is about. Is Machu Picchu worth it? Is it really one of the most incredible things I will ever see?<br />
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Chris thinks yes.<br />
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The early morning fog has risen and the sun beats down on the flat stone surfaces. The scene is powerful.<br />
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We've lucked out. I don't know if it's because of World Cup season or the hot afternoon, but there's not a lot of people out here. Makes for great photos.<br />
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We're slowly walking through every nook and cranny of this place.<br />
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It's bigger than we thought and there are so many mysteries. This time we're just here to experience it - we don't want to be rushed. So we haven't got a guide. I'm almost half regretting it, I'm stuck with this clown.<br />
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We wander around and placidly sit beside some sweet llamas, who keep us company for the rest of the afternoon.<br />
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Classic. My photos of him are better than his photos of me. Does this happen to anyone else?<br />
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I think the trek up has obliterated our energy. We should've brought energy balls or bananas up with us. We'll have to come back with a guide next time. It's time to go back to Aguas Calientes and get dinner. But not before a few final photos.<br />
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On the way down we reluctantly board a bus. We're not the only tired ones...<br />
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We've heard it's a good idea to head to some hot springs after this day of hiking and climbing. But instead we're off to Casa Andina. We're going to get a mean Lomo Saltado and a firewood pizza, and reminisce about the amazing day we've just had!<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3lJ88nydFzA/W0-YBSDrt0I/AAAAAAAAQHc/mLHOUif3qOckC28_rSobwsZr0vS3OyfbwCLcBGAs/s1600/machu-picchu-travel-blog-22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="810" data-original-width="1080" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3lJ88nydFzA/W0-YBSDrt0I/AAAAAAAAQHc/mLHOUif3qOckC28_rSobwsZr0vS3OyfbwCLcBGAs/s1600/machu-picchu-travel-blog-22.jpg" /></a>Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Peru-13.1631412 -72.544962899999973-13.1631412 -72.544962899999973 -13.1631412 -72.544962899999973tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-30665308151066501502018-07-27T22:26:00.000+01:002018-08-18T20:04:44.286+01:007 Things to Do in Lima's City Centre<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--QresdtLfU4/W1B4j4LHuKI/AAAAAAAAQKg/zuShHlOD8AQao0h70quGbPmgCxICH-ROgCLcBGAs/s1600/lima-city-centre-things-to-do-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--QresdtLfU4/W1B4j4LHuKI/AAAAAAAAQKg/zuShHlOD8AQao0h70quGbPmgCxICH-ROgCLcBGAs/s1600/lima-city-centre-things-to-do-8.jpg" /></a><br />
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Lima, Peru. This foggy jungle, traffic jams and all, is a wondrous convergence of modernity intertwined with history and heritage. The 'History' part is what we're exploring today. Follow me...<br />
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If you're travelling around Peru it's likely that you'll have to stay in Lima for a few days. Luckily Lima is a destination in its own right and has lots to offer. From ancient, coastal boardwalks, to fantastic art museums and historical sites. And let's not forget: Lima's is the capital to the 'most renowned culinary scene in the world' (as voted by the world).<br />
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There are three main areas to explore in Lima if you're on a short stay. Miraflores (the fun-loving district), Barranco (the bohemian-artsy district) and the historic centre.<br />
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Today we're exploring the historical centre (Centro Histórico).<br />
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1. Basilica and Monastery of San Francisco & Catacombs</h2>
In the morning we head to the Monastery of San Francisco, a 25-minute taxi ride from Miraflores. This church is an impressive architectural feat of the 17th century, with baroque gilded side altars and a beautiful cupola decorated with heavy Spanish and Arabic influence. The church houses a fine library containing books as old as time as well as a collection of paintings from Colonial and Republican times. A few feet beneath the nave of the church lies Lima's first cemetery, the Catacombs.<br />
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There are guided tours in English and Spanish often, and they last little over an hour. You can check the opening times and entry fees here. In May 2017 the fee was S/10.00 ($3 / £2.30) and it includes the guided tour price for the church and catacombs.<br />
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2. Parque de la Muralla</h2>
Coming out of the Monastery take a right and follow the road for 20 seconds (literally) until you reach the Parque de la Muralla (The Park of the Wall). This 'park' was built over an old rubbish/garbage landfill as an ancient wall that surrounded Lima city, built was discovered and partly restored to show how it might have looked back in the 17th century when it was built to safeguard Lima from Pirate attacks.<br />
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The place has some pergolas and fountains but we're only here to check it out briefly. If you stand at the top, you get a glimpse of how the other half live. It's a good place to see that Lima has a lot of different faces.<br />
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We have a leisurely five-minute walk around it and read a few of the plaques. There's a small gallery showing some artefacts dug up on the site as well as a library for children with thousands of books and comics. Under the Balta bridge, there's also a gym with a cost per hour (about a dollar / just under a sterling pound an hour).<br />
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3. Government Palace and the Changing of the Guards</h2>
Coming out the park, follow Jiron Junin towards the Government Palace, the official residence of the President. We get there at noon as the band plays a medley of popular songs and traditional marching songs as the guards, clad in red and white, march in different styles under the watchful eyes of military commanders.<br />
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As we leave the Palace gates and move towards the centre of the square, the Plaza de Armas, we can appreciate the beautiful Cathedral of Lima, the Club de la Union, the Palacio Municipal, the Casa del Oidor and the Palacio Arzobispal (Bishop's Palace), which point heavily at the massive Catholic influence and following we have in Peru.<br />
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4. & 5. Lunch at Museo del Pisco & "Jironear"</h2>
Tummies are now rumbling and there's no better place than Museo del Pisco on Jiron Carabaya 193 to stop for a bite and of course, a Pisco Sour. If you've already tried Pisco Sour, get a Passionfruit Chilcano instead, another Pisco-based cocktail. Order a ceviche if you can handle the heat or a Lomo Saltado or Chicharron and don't forget to try the desserts!<br />
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When you're bellies are full, step out again to explore the old architecture from Colonial times, when the Spanish ruled, scattered around the "Jirones". A Jiron is a Peruvian street that has smaller streets in between blocks. They are full of restored buildings and we explore them at a slow pace, looking at the colours, the architecture, the way they've stood the test of time.<br />
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There's the Old Train Station (now free Casa de la Literatura), Pasaje del Correo Central, now a Parisian-style passage, home of the National Archives. If you follow Jiron de la Union to the North, you can have a look at the Rimac River.<br />
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See if you can spot the old Bar Cordano in Jirón Ancash. It's one of the oldest surviving bars in Lima. If you don't believe me, look at how many door coats of paint it's been through:<br />
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Nearby is Casa de Aliaga, which was given to Captain Jeronimo de Aliaga, a friend of Francisco Pizarro (founder of Lima) shortly after the foundation in 1535. Since then, seventeen generations of Captain Aliaga have lived there. You can visit the inside (which remains beautifully restored) by making an appointment and paying a fee of about S/.30.00 (as of May 2017) or $9/£7.<br />
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6. Pre-Columbian Treasures at Museo Larco</h2>
If you visit only one museum, make it Museo Larco (Avenida Bolivar 1515, 15-minute drive from Miraflores or the City Centre) - a private museum of pre-Columbian treasures of old Peru.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span> <span style="text-align: center;">The museum itself is set in an old mansion from the Virreynato, Colonial times. Its international-quality perfectly curated rooms allow you to fully immerse yourself in over 5000 years of Peruvian history through artefacts, art, tools and more. The stories from the very knowledgeable guides are short and interesting enough that even the most museum-skeptical will be fascinated. </span><br />
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Seeing it all at slow pace will take between 2 - 3 hours, but a guided tour covers the highlights in 45 minutes. You even get access to the storerooms where you can explore artefacts not currently being exhibited - you will find true gems here.<br />
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The museum labels explain what you're looking at thoroughly but if you prefer a more interactive experience, you can join a guided tour or even better - get a fully customised guided tour by the team of curators, according to your likes and interests. If you want to do this, you can email curaduria@museolarco.org<br />
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A visit to this museum is truly essential if you're in Lima, as it will give you a close connection and understanding of this beautiful land. When you're done looking at the pre-Incan wares, stroll through the peaceful gardens and then rest your feet in their lovely cafe. The entry fee will set you back S/.30.00 (as of May 2017) or $9/£7.<br />
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7. Magic Water Circuit at the Parque de la Reserva</h2>
When the sun's gone down (essential!) jump in a taxi heading in the general direction of Miraflores (where you'll likely be staying) but stop at the Parque de la Reserva. This park was renovated in 2007 to reclaim it for public use, and a massive exhibition of water displays and fountains was installed. It even holds a Guinness Record for the largest public space with a fountain display!<br />
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It might not sound like much, but it's a lovely, lovely and truly stunning display and a great way to spend an evening before heading for dinner. Tours are free and entry costs a mere S/.4.00 / $1.20 / £1 (a pound!!!). You can even buy snacks and local traditional sweets inside if you get peckish.<br />
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This ends our tour of Central Lima. There's plenty more to see of course, so if you're here for several days be sure to check out the Mali (Museo de Arte de Lima) and do enter the Casa de Aliaga and the Casa de la Literatura.<br />
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For now, head back to Miraflores. Even better, jump in a cab straight to a tiny hole that makes Anticuchos: La Grimanesa. They make some of the best marinated grilled beef skewers in town. Pro tip, don't find out what part of the cow it is. Just enjoy it. ;)<br />
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<a href="https://mailchi.mp/fa0e36604082/freeguidetoperu" target="_blank">If you enjoyed this list don't miss out on my free PDF guide to Peru. It has everything you need to know in only 1 page! Find it here</a></h4>
Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Lima, Peru-12.0463731 -77.042754-12.5433321 -77.688201 -11.5494141 -76.397307tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-36828722528715149352018-07-25T22:43:00.000+01:002018-08-18T20:05:01.423+01:008 Things to Do in Arequipa if You're a Nature & Culture Lover<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t6J96HMvRnQ/W0u5ljuI3jI/AAAAAAAAQCY/UX91OYyKVcARRUvIcbvmEZZIY_KLXlzTQCLcBGAs/s1600/8-things-to-do-in-arequipa-22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1440" data-original-width="1080" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t6J96HMvRnQ/W0u5ljuI3jI/AAAAAAAAQCY/UX91OYyKVcARRUvIcbvmEZZIY_KLXlzTQCLcBGAs/s1600/8-things-to-do-in-arequipa-22.jpg" /></a><br />
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Arequipa is home to one of Peru's wildest landscapes: active volcanoes, high-altitude deserts, hot springs and the deepest Canyon in the world. Here's a guide to making the most of it!<br />
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Naturally, Arequipa is fantastic for outdoor adventure sports. Trekking, hiking and white-water rafting are all on offer. But it's also a beautiful city in its own right. There are Monasteries to explore, town squares to stroll in at night and archeological mysteries to discover.<br />
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1. Get Lost in a Colonial-Style Citadel: Monasterio de Santa Catalina </h2>
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Santa Catalina Monastery was founded in 1580 by a woman who was as rich as she was selective in allowing nuns in. But this was no normal nunnery - no poverty (and chastity?) here. The nuns were daughters of the best Spanish families, and each had a handful of slaves to tend after them. They often had parties and gatherings. They pretty much continued living the privileged life they had always lived.<br />
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This went on for a few centuries until all was set straight by Pope Pius IX. From 1871 on, the Monastery and Cloisters remained a complete mystery to the public until it was opened in 1970. Today there are about a dozen nuns living in the Cloisters in a corner away from the tourists' prying eyes.<br />
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The Monastery is absolutely unmissable. More than a Monastery, it's like a fortress or a citadel. It has winding roads, secret passageways, preserved living quarters, bakery, period furnishing and art. It's part of the fabric of the city, intrinsically woven into its history.<br />
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I recommend getting a tour guide (for about 45 minutes to an hour) so you can hear the mesmerising stories. Then use another hour to walk and get lost in the grounds by yourself, in the calm and stillness of the place.<br />
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2. Witness a Fascinating Ritual of the Incas: Human Sacrifices in the Andes</h2>
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In the mid-90s volcanic eruptions melted the snow near Sabancaya, exposing a burial site dating back to the Inca empire. What was found there - the mummy of a teenage Inca girl - uncovered some incredibly sad rituals that gave us a glimpse into Inca life.<br />
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The girl had been sacrificed to the gods in an effort to keep them from sending earthquakes, avalanches or volcanic eruptions. The mummy was quickly taken to the Catholic University, where she was dubbed 'Juanita, the ice princess'.<br />
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The small exhibition at the Museo Santuarios Andinos or Museum Santury must be visited with a guide. The visit starts with a well-produced short but interesting video in English. This gives you background into the fascinating story of how the remains were discovered and how the exhibition came to be.<br />
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Subsequent exhibits give you insight into the Inca's rituals, thoughts and fears - and what lead them to these child sacrifices. The whole exhibition is a respectful, non-gimmicky visit that ends with the viewing of the frozen mummy.<br />
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3. Strolling Around Arequipa: Plaza de Armas, Iglesia de la Compañía & Yanahuara Lookout</h2>
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Arequipa glistens in the sun. It's built almost entirely out of Limestone from the nearby volcanoes, which means most buildings are white. No wonder this city is dubbed Ciudad Blanca (White City).<br />
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One of the best places to see this picturesque architecture is at the Plaza de Armas. Head over upstairs to one of the cafes with balconies and order an Alfajor de Miel or Crocante de Alfajor de Miel with your coffee whilst you people-watch.<br />
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Look over to the Cathedral. This is the only in Peru that stretches the length of the Plaza. It has a somewhat doomed fate - it's been burnt and toppled by earthquakes again and again.<br />
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Walking distance from the Plaza is the neighbourhood of Yanahuara. Follow the signs for the Lookout and marvel at the sight of the city, flanked by the three mounts / volcanoes from the arches.<br />
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4. Discover Local Life at Mercado San Camilo</h2>
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It's the 17th Century. An earthquake has destroyed the largest church in town - the Monastery of San Camilo. Instead, a market structure is built on the site and the Mercado San Camilo is founded in 1881. Who designs it? No other than Gustave Eiffel.<br />
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Chicken, beef, vegetables, fish, bread, herbs and even clothes can all be found in the market. The place is central to life here, not just a place for daily shopping but also a meeting point between modern life and old traditions. Some innately Arequipeñan food can be found here: rocotos (chillies), Arequipeñan cheeses and a huge variety of potatoes. You can get a cheap menu or just have a tamale and sit alongside locals. Or get the famous and delicious freshly prepared fruit juice - lovingly squeezed by Arequipeñas.<br />
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Even if you're not in the mood for shopping, bring your camera and observe. Every colour, sound and smell mingles and brings this place alive.<br />
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5. See How The Rich Lived: Colonial Mansions</h2>
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Some of the Limestone mansions built in colonial times can still be visited today. They're mostly restored after having fallen apart when earthquakes stroke (see a recurring theme here?) but they retain the Colonial charm, features, and a lot of original furniture and artefacts giving you insight of how the rich lived in those times.<br />
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Entry fee is usually nominal, and includes a simple guided tour. But most people prefer to wander and read the placards (in English and Spanish) by themselves.<br />
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6. Get The Adrenaline Pumping: Colca Canyon</h2>
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The Colca Canyon is, at 3,400m deep, one of the deepest in the world (the deepest being the neighbouring Cotahuasi Canyon). It's the home of the giant Andean condor, which you can see fly by from overlooks like Cruz del Condor. The valley around the canyon can be explored by foot. From here, you can visit traditional villages and remote churches, and admire the terraced agriculture (predating the Incas).<br />
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You can visit the Colca Canyon relatively easily without much planning ahead as there are day trips - easily bought from Arequipa agencies. There's also a 3-day trek to Colca Canyon, which you can do with a reputable agency or a shorter, 1 day (overnight) trek that can incorporate other sports like mountain biking. It's best to spend a day or two in Arequipa first to acclimatise (2.3K above sea level!) or to have spent time in Cuzco first. A recommended eco-friendly tour agency is Colca Trek.<br />
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7. Visit Sights to Behold: Patopampa, Chivay and the Calera Hot Springs</h2>
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A day trip to the Colca Canyon will have a full-on and very complete itinerary. Tours often start in the wee hours, between 3 - 4AM. By sunrise, you're at the inter-Andean town of Chivay. The coach passes desserts, alpaca-covered pampas (dry plains) and agricultural fields where there's purple corn, amaranth, kiwich, corn and potatoes. Later you head to the tiny town of Maca where there's a 16th Century Baroque church.<br />
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At around noon your arrive at La Calera hot springs, at the top of Chivay. Here you can enjoy thermo-medicinal and outdoor pools at 45 degrees celsius.<br />
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There's more exploring after a lunch in the town of Chivay. You'll see the volcanic range, the Ampato mount (where Juanita was discovered), lagoons with Andean birds and pink flamingos, Alpacas and Llamas and perhaps visit a National Reserve where you can se Vicuñas (wild animals) running on the high plateau (3,800m!).<br />
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<h2>
8. The Great Outdoors: Adventures for Everyone</h2>
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If the one-day trip isn't enough adventure for you, there is no shortage of outdoor activities to do. There's the popular 4 hour hike down El Misti volcano, mountaneering (best done between April and December), river-running (of which you can even do one that reaches into the deepest sections of the deepest canyon), kayaking, mountain biking and trekking for all fitness and experience levels. Whatever you decide to do, you should either have good knowledge of the area, maps, equipment and survival skills or pay a reputable company or registered guide to take you.<br />
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<h2>
What to Eat in Arequipa?</h2>
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Peru is a fantasyland for epicures, its food so varied, vibrant and creative. Arequipa's food is a fine example of this, with even the simplest dishes carrying a full flavour of herbs and spices. Try the following things:<br />
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<li>Ocopa: an entre of boiled potatoes dressed with Ocopa sauce, made with aji huacatay (spicy!)</li>
<li>Adobo de Chancho: a slow-cooked pork stew</li>
<li>Chaque: this is what locals eat on a Monday! Imagine you took all the nutritious foods, meats, etc. and put them in a soup.</li>
<li>Shrimp! There are several dishes made with Shrimp - they are full-flavoured and rich and absolutely delicious. There's torrejas (potato pancakes), chupe (creamy stew), deep fried, etc. The best time to try them is from September onwards. Head to La Nueva Palomino in Yanahuara or El Gato Vitoreño. Have a Queso Helado de Papaya Arequipeña (cheese ice cream with papaya).</li>
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<h2>
How to Get to Arequipa?</h2>
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Arequipa is only a hop, skip and jump away from Cuzco. Many stop here to acclimatise to the heights of Colca Canyon ahead of trekking Machu Picchu. Others stop here ahead of visiting Puno. Either way, it's super easy and cheap to get here from any of those cities or from the capital. From here, you can also get a coach all the way into Chile and Argentina from here. But before you do that, check out my top reasons to visit The White City.<br />
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When to Visit Arequipa?</h2>
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The best weather to be had in Arequipa is during Southern Hemisphere dry winter season (June - August). But the absolute optimal time to visit is during the 'Shoulder' season: May and September (avoiding the crowds!).<br />
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I hope this guide has helped you get to know Arequipa a little bit and sparked that little voice inside you that is telling you that you must go...<br />
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Do you know of any off-the-beaten-path places to visit in Arequipa? Share it in the comments below or write to us at journographie@gmail.com</h4>
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<a href="https://mailchi.mp/fa0e36604082/freeguidetoperu" target="_blank">You can also download our free 1-page guide to Peru. An up-to-date guide curated by locals with the best places you can't miss! Find it here.</a></h4>
Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Arequipa, Peru-16.4090474 -71.537450999999976-16.4699769 -71.618131999999974 -16.3481179 -71.456769999999977tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-71590651619309486362018-07-21T22:20:00.000+01:002018-08-18T20:02:41.528+01:00Japan 2 Weeks Travel Itinerary for the Hungry Explorer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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First-time traveller to Japan and want to see it all? You've come to the right place. You'll be surprised at how much you can see in 2 weeks.<br />
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"></span><br />
<a name='more'></a>I've now been to Japan twice and I'm ready to book my third trip. Chris lived there for 2 years, so his advice and insight are unique. Using our combined knowledge, researching and asking local friends, I spend months building my itineraries. I like a bit of everything: temples, culture, food, fun, seaside, history and nature.<br />
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Knowing what I now know, this is the itinerary I would follow if I had to re-do my first visit to Japan - and knew it was going to be my only chance. Before you read on, open a new tab to check out the <a href="https://journographietravel.blogspot.com/2018/07/japan-8-tips-before-you-go.html" target="_blank">8 things to do ahead of travelling to Japan</a>.<br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-weight: normal;">Why You Should Do This Itinerary</span></h2>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-weight: normal;">You should do this if you think this might be your only chance to see Japan. You will get a chance to see a minimum of </span><span lang="EN-GB"><b>10 UNESCO World Heritage</b></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-weight: normal;"> sites before they become too crowded. You'll experience cities, port towns, primeval forest walks, Edo-period towns, historic cities, religious temples & magical stays and some of Japan's top experiences.</span></div>
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You'll travel between cities using super-fast trains and even though you see a lot of places, you only have 2 long train journeys (under 4 hours each), so you won't feel like your holiday is spent travelling. Trains in Japan are incredibly comfortable and very spacious - an extra bonus.</div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-weight: normal;">Is Japan Expensive?</span></h2>
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Yes and no. Let me ask you this, is it expensive to see a lot of a country? How much would it cost to see a lot of the US?</div>
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<h3>
How Much Should I Budget?</h3>
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Travelling and accommodation cost are going to be the main costs, but if you're clever about it you can find great deals. I normally budget £1500 each (about $2,000) including flights and JR Pass (train) but I should say - we are mid-range travellers. You can do it a lot cheaper and you can do it a lot more luxurious. We like how we do it though - the right mix of quality without scrimping - yet locally spent. You'll never find us in a regular hotel in Japan - it's all guesthouses and local little restaurant.</div>
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<h3>
Rail in Japan</h3>
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The JR Pass is a huge rail network covering pretty much all of Japan. You can buy regional ones or a National one for 7 days (about £195 / $260), 14 days (about £310 / $400) or 21 days. Getting a JR Pass for an itinerary like this is worth it because it covers most segments of travel. You'll rarely have to fork out any more money, except for the occasional super rural cheap train.</div>
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<h3>
Is Food Expensive?</h3>
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You can eat well in Japan for not a lot of money. The Japanese Yelp is <a href="https://tabelog.com/en/" target="_blank">Tabelog</a>. But you can also just walk around and spot where it seems busy with locals. Rule of thumb? Any place without an English menu will be ten times cheaper. </div>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">
The Itinerary</span></h2>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-weight: normal;">Days 1 - 3: Tokyo</span></h3>
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Fly into Haneda. It's often cheaper to fly to and it's closer to Tokyo than Narita.<br />
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Spend your first two days in Tokyo getting to grips with Japanese technology and culture. Be amazed at their toilets and convenience shops, buy cold (or hot) Boss coffee from vending machines. You can follow a tried-and-tested Tokyo itinerary or try my alternative guide to Tokyo.<br />
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Popular Tokyo experiences include <b>Robot Cabaret </b>and the <b>Tsukiji Fish Market</b> tour. If you’re into something different, you can buy tickets for Sumo competitions or to watch the training. If you're a fan of <b>Studio Ghibli </b>(My Neighbour Totoro), the <b>Ghibli Museum</b> is highly recommended (book ahead). Don't forget to go into a Games Arcade and also have a go at Pachinko.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VI-AyiD8dy8/W1Ob_I86voI/AAAAAAAAQNY/IX-pQEyKlKEnPx9XNGdeuMgJ6cyRFTP-wCLcBGAs/s1600/2-weeks-japan-travel-itinerary-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VI-AyiD8dy8/W1Ob_I86voI/AAAAAAAAQNY/IX-pQEyKlKEnPx9XNGdeuMgJ6cyRFTP-wCLcBGAs/s1600/2-weeks-japan-travel-itinerary-7.jpg" /></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rgMKunh85MA/W1Ob_NsTDZI/AAAAAAAAQNg/VlinnNjx2dgQ5soU1OyOJrt5bwgJy8H_gCLcBGAs/s1600/2-weeks-japan-travel-itinerary-8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rgMKunh85MA/W1Ob_NsTDZI/AAAAAAAAQNg/VlinnNjx2dgQ5soU1OyOJrt5bwgJy8H_gCLcBGAs/s1600/2-weeks-japan-travel-itinerary-8.jpg" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EIS5NVfdey8/W1OcAOcfuGI/AAAAAAAAQNk/E2Q8qu81s7QpiUb1oHuB3LI6bmQ0lp2RwCLcBGAs/s1600/2-weeks-japan-travel-itinerary-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EIS5NVfdey8/W1OcAOcfuGI/AAAAAAAAQNk/E2Q8qu81s7QpiUb1oHuB3LI6bmQ0lp2RwCLcBGAs/s1600/2-weeks-japan-travel-itinerary-9.jpg" /></a><br />
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On the 3rd day, activate your JR pass (you can activate it earlier if you are going to be using Tokyo JR lines) and take a very early train for day trip to Nikko (just over 2 hrs). Nikko is famous for its peaceful shrines set amidst the lush forests and hilly woods. <a href="https://www.travelyesplease.com/travel-blog-day-trip-to-nikko/">Here’s</a> a great post on a day spent in Nikko exploring the shrines.<br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">If you'd prefer a day trip with less travel <b>Hakone</b>, <b>Enoshima Island, Kamakura </b>and<b> Yokohama </b>are all beautiful and under an hour away.</span></div>
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At the end of the day, head back to Tokyo for the night, but not before enjoying dinner at <a href="https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/%E6%99%83%E5%AF%BF%E5%8F%B8+Komekichi+Kouzushi/@36.7477639,139.6160115,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x601fa0cfdf5e56b9:0x5dd0c5ee070a58e2!8m2!3d36.7477639!4d139.6182002">Komekichi Kouzushi</a>.<br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-weight: normal;">Where to stay in Tokyo</span></h4>
Staying in Tokyo is not cheap. Something you’ll find in Japan as well is that rooms are often tiny unless you book a traditional Ryokan.<br />
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<a href="http://emblemhostel.com/" target="_blank">Emblem Hostel Nishiarai </a>offers <b>excellent value</b>, beautiful rooms (individual beds and private rooms as well) and a good breakfast, if only slightly away from the hustle and bustle (but very conveniently located).<br />
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<a href="https://spacehosteltokyo.com/" target="_blank">Space Hostel Tokyo</a> is very close to the main Tokyo temple of Sensi-ji and offers simple rooms with bunk beds but no meals on site. It is also very <b>highly rated</b> by couples.<br />
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Finally, <a href="http://www.backpackerstokyo.com/" target="_blank">Good Diner Inn Copain </a>is superbly rated by travellers because of its cleanliness, friendliness and <b>amazing breakfast</b> at super, <b>super cheap</b> prices for a bunk bed.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">
Days 4 & 5: Matsumoto</span></h3>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">On day 4 jump on a train to Matsumoto (just over 3 hrs). </span>Arriving in Matsumoto take it easy. Take a stroll, <b>relax</b> and visit Matsumoto Castle – one of Japan’s most beautiful original castles. Get a free tour guide in English. There will be volunteer guides and no tips are allowed (you can pay with smiles!).<br />
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Lunch on delicious and fresh <b>handmade Soba noodles </b>at top-rated <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/rR4EFEqE9wr">Kobayashi Soba</a> or even better, at そば処 吉邦 (you're going to have to google that). This one is next to the Castle, is locally-owned by a couple and they make the <i>best</i> Soba.<br />
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After lunch go to the <b>Matsumoto City Museum of Art. </b>Matsumoto is the home of internationally renowned artist Yayoi Kusama, and they'll have an exhibition that will turn your perception of art upside down. You can't take photos of the more intense-psychedelic ones. But the exhibition spans three floors and there's a great chance you won't have to share it with many people.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J83HRGhsIB0/W1Og-mLJ0rI/AAAAAAAAQOI/fawRkXWMq-4BKVN5LzUSWMkoHMDCS3IqQCLcBGAs/s1600/2-weeks-japan-travel-itinerary-22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J83HRGhsIB0/W1Og-mLJ0rI/AAAAAAAAQOI/fawRkXWMq-4BKVN5LzUSWMkoHMDCS3IqQCLcBGAs/s1600/2-weeks-japan-travel-itinerary-22.jpg" /></a><br />
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In the evening wander around the super hip town centre where you'll find fantastic independent shops, restaurants, hipster bars and galleries. This is an art & culture town after all. Head over to the tiiiiny <b>standing 8 oz bar</b> and strike a conversation with strangers (this is also the friendliest town!). For dinner and more drinks, walk into the Izakaya (pub) across the road. It's called <b>Hi-kage</b> - ひかげ(炎影)<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MkfAoyrUT2c/W1Oh1P55bqI/AAAAAAAAQOg/TffbBbzSnP4shs9EMBJX-2lbbC8TELHiwCLcBGAs/s1600/2-weeks-japan-travel-itinerary-19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MkfAoyrUT2c/W1Oh1P55bqI/AAAAAAAAQOg/TffbBbzSnP4shs9EMBJX-2lbbC8TELHiwCLcBGAs/s1600/2-weeks-japan-travel-itinerary-19.jpg" /></a><i>Matsumoto really is the friendliest town!</i></div>
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The next day take a day trip to the <b>Kiso Valley</b>. Here is the Nakasendo trail, a Samurai route from the Edo period that connects Tokyo to Kyoto. Today, several postal towns have been restored by local residents. The highlight is an 8km segment of the trail, which you can walk through the forest, hills and countryside. It's an easy hike. Or you can take a coach and choose to visit only one of the towns.<br />
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I recommend the walk from <b>Magome</b> to <b>Tsumago, </b>because Tsumago is a nicer town to rest in, but also because the walk this way is a bit easier.<b> </b>You can do the walk either way, though.<br />
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Top tip: rent a bell from the infomation centre if you go for the walk. Ring it along the walk to help keep bears away from the walking trails.<br />
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At the end of the day take a complimentary shuttle bus and stay in the mountains in <b><a href="http://www.booking.com/Share-MpDJzP" target="_blank">Tokonamiso</a> </b>(book ahead and ask for dinner and breakfast options). This will be a mini-holiday in itself as you get to relax, be taken care of and experience traditional Japanese hospitality and facilities. Soak your muscles in their outdoor Onsen (hot springs) overlooking the mountains. Watch the stars on their stargazing deck. Relax!<br />
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Tip: Tsumago and Magome both shut at 5PM - there is no night life at all. No matter where you choose to stay, book your meals in advance. There won't be alternatives (restaurants, shops).<br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">
Where to stay in Matsumoto</span></h4>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The 2 highest rated <b>western</b> <b>style</b> hotels on booking.com are the <span id="goog_737996185"></span><span id="goog_737996186"></span><a href="http://matsumoto.richmondhotel.jp/" target="_blank">Richmond Hotel Matsumoto</a> and the <a href="http://renewal.hotespa.net/dormyinn/english/" target="_blank">Dormy Inn</a> but I cannot recommend enough that you go to <a href="http://tabi-shiro.com/en/" target="_blank">Tabi-shiro</a>. This is a 2-year old renovation with heart, soul & amazing decor. It's a simple but beautiful Japanese stay. The owner, a young Japanese man called Kio, will make you feel welcome.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-weight: normal;">Days 6 & 7: Osaka</span></h3>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Osaka is a foodie destination, and in this itinerary, it’s also a tactical stop.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">On the morning of the 6th day, catch the early shuttle from the guesthouse to the train station. Take your train to Osaka. This one is a long one - nearly 4 hours. So get your travel diary out and perch yourself on a window seat.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Arrive in Osaka in time for lunch and head straight for the</span> <b>Dotonbori</b>, an area by the river full of restaurants and shops. After lunch you can walk by <b>Osaka</b> Castle and the <b>Keitakuen</b> gardens.</div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><a href="https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g298566-d3944229-Reviews-Ichiran_Dotonbori-Osaka_Osaka_Prefecture_Kinki.html">Ichiran Dotonbori</a> serve cheap but good Ramen. <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurant_Review-g298566-d7439604-Reviews-Okonomiyaki_Chitose-Osaka_Osaka_Prefecture_Kinki.html" target="_blank">Okonomiyaki Chitose</a> do the famous Osaka <b>Okonomiyaki</b> (fried omelettes with noodles and lots of goodies inside), also cheap. Most places to eat in Osaka are cheap and cheerful, with a variety of causal <b>Izakayas</b> (pub-like restaurants to drink and eat lots of little dishes).</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">At the Dotonbori don’t forget to visit the crazy shop <b>Don Quijote</b>. Floors upon floors of the craziest little Japanese things, super cheap. This is where you stock up on Japanese paraphernalia to take back for <s>yourself</s> your friends.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">When you’re done, head to the </span><b>Umeda Sky building</b> for amazing views of the city at sunset. Or if you fancy skipping all of that, you can visit the <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g298566-d320972-Reviews-Osaka_Museum_of_Housing_and_Living-Osaka_Osaka_Prefecture_Kinki.html" target="_blank">Museum of Housing and Living.</a> It’s a life-size model of a city (buildings and streets) from Edo Period.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">On day 7 you have 2 day trip options: Nara or Koya-san.</span></h4>
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In <b>Nara</b> you can have long walks discovering the scattered ancient temples and Shinto shrines along Nara park, where the famous <b>deer</b> live. You'll see lush gardens and giant buddhas and feast on the most amazing Tuna sashimi at <a href="https://goo.gl/maps/8J7VXgpMMVU2">Maguro Koya</a> (this looks like a greasy hole but is Nara's best kept secret. Shh! Don't tell anyone).<br />
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<b>Koya-san</b> is a sacred mountain and the centre of Shingon Buddhism. Kobo Daishi (Japan's grand master of Buddhism) established his retreat here in 816AD. Today, you can visit several temples nestled in primeval forest as monks offer their prayers. <b>The Okunoin (Monk cementery) </b>is an experience of its own. Walking through it will take you to the Hall of Lamps. Behind it is the Kobo <b>Daishi Mausoleom</b>. Not many first-time visitors choose to come to Koya-san so this is a different experience and a treat! <a href="https://www.journographie.com/2018/07/shukubo-temple-stay-koyasan-sacred-mount-japan.html">You can read all about our experience there on this post.</a><br />
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If you're up for it, and for a heightened and much improved experience, stay overnight in a Shukubo (Temple lodging). Wake up with the Monks to chant and experience their bare cuisine. If you do this, you also get to experience Okunoin cementery at nightfall, which is by far my top experience in Japan.<br />
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Whichever experience you choose, it will be unforgettable.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">
Where to stay in Osaka</span></h4>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">We stayed at the fabulous <a href="http://www.hotel-ichiei.com/" target="_blank">Hotel Ichei</a>. Right by Osaka station and within walking distance of lots of great things to see & do. Highly, highly recommend getting a Japanese-style room. </span></div>
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<h3>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-weight: normal;">Days 8 & 9: Hiroshima & Miyajima and the Floating Torii</span></h3>
If you look at a map of Japan you will think I'm crazy to suggest you head over to Hiroshima now. But you'll be surprised to know it only takes about 2 and a half hours. This morning, that's what you're going to do.<br />
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Grab your bags and hop on a super fast train to <b>Hiroshima</b>. Leave your backpack at the station and head for <b>Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum.</b> If you think Hiroshima is a sad place, let me break your prejudice now. Hiroshima is a prosperous city that has moved on from the A-bomb. Moved on, but not forgotten. Visiting it opened my eyes to history, to suffering but also to the beauty and strength of humanity. It is a humbling place and it <i>must</i> be in your itinerary.<br />
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It won't take you the whole day, but take your time anyway. Make sure to stop at a little spot for lunch - anywhere where it's small and you can see a lot of locals hunched over food will be good. Ask for a Hiroshima Okonomiyaki. Now you can compare the Osaka vs Hiroshima styles!<br />
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In the evening head to the harbour (hop on the San-yo line, about 25 minutes) and board a ferry to <b>Miyajima island</b> (10 minutes, less than $5). This magnificent little island is where you'll spend the night.<br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">You’ll arrive at dusk and it will be magical. You’ll be picked up by your hotel’s transportation at the port and, because the town is tiny, you’ll be dropping your bags and putting your feet up in 5 minutes. Make sure they feed you well before you head back out to see the little town at night when it comes alive. And make sure to get your picture of the red <b>Torii</b> at night too!</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"> </span><br />
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The next day, check out some stores and the temples. Do a little exploration on your own. Buy some packed lunch and head up to hike <b>Mount Misen</b>. When you get to the top, get your lunch out and enjoy the views of the Seto inland sea!<br />
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Where to stay in Miyajima</h4>
For this trip I recommend <a href="http://www.gambo-ad.com/english/hotel/index.php?ar=1&id=10">Momijiso</a>, a very humble and rather affordable traditional Ryokan nestled in the primaeval forest ran by a husband and wife team. They’ll run you a bath before you head to bed. It's also super close to the start of Mount Misen ropeway.<br />
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Days 10 - 14: Kyoto & fly home</span></h3>
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When you've come down from St Misen, start making your way back to catch the ferry back and then the San-yo line to Hiroshima. Get an Ekiben for dinner (train station bento) and hop on a train straight to Kyoto.<br />
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You’ll arrive in Kyoto just as the day ends, but that’s only when the fun starts! There are a lot of Kyoto itineraries out there so pick and choose what you like and explore. For now, just relax.<br />
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Whilst you're in Kyoto don't forget to see the <b>Bamboo Forest (Arashiyama)</b>, the <b>Golden temple (Kinkakuji)</b>, the <b>Geisha distric (Gion)</b>, <b>Kiyomizu-dera, Daigo-ji, Fushimi Inari Taisha </b>and<b> Tō-ji.</b><br />
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My secret tip in Kyoto is that, after you're templed-out (will be around the end of 12) head on a day trip to a magical relaxing experience to <b>Mount Kurama</b>. You'l take a sweet little train up with an amazing view up the mountains. There, go for a light hike of Kurama-dera (very different temple to what you will have seen in Kyoto!). There won't be many people there, and you'll have much more spiritual experience. Enjoy the spectacular view at the top. The best part is when you're ready to come down: head to Kurama Onsen. There's outdoor hot springs overlooking the beautiful mountains and forest.<br />
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<h4>
Where to stay in Kyoto</h4>
Close to the Imperial Palace is the minimalist yet warm <a href="https://www.birdhostel.com/en-gb" target="_blank">Bird Hostel</a>. If you want something a bit more traditional (and have a bigger budget), stay at <a href="http://www.sangen.info/en/" target="_blank">Kyo no Yado Sangen Ninenzaka</a>. A third exceptional yet budget option is <a href="http://www.sangen.info/en/" target="_blank">Mulan Hostel</a>. You can get either bunk beds or private rooms.<br />
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Day 14 is for onward travel & catching your inbound flight home.</h4>
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<h2>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Top Tips for Keeping it Sustainable & Getting Extra Enjoyment</span></h2>
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<li>You'll be passing some areas of incredible natural beauty - keep them that way! Take your rubbish home :)</li>
<li>Bring a refillable water bottle with you from home. Extra points if you bring chopsticks or cutlery for all the bento and on-the-go meals you'll have</li>
<li>Where possible book lodgings with local farm, families or guesthouses. You can google guesthouses and pick those whose names appear in Japanese only - then use Google Translate to make a booking directly with them. Most will accept an email or phone call</li>
<li>Even if a bit more inconvenient than using a booking website, book directly with the guesthouses. You'll get the best rate and 100% of your money will go towards that business. Re-confirm a week before travel</li>
<li>Remember that many smaller towns will not be there with the sole purpose of tourism, so not everything might be convenient in the more rural towns. Be patient and plan ahead so you can fully enjoy your time. This is true especially of dinners / breakfasts (book them with the guesthouse ahead!)</li>
<li>Try to speak to locals, asking for recommendations (ososume) at restaurants or to other customers at bars</li>
<li>Japan is still very traditional in handling money. They prefer cash. Make sure you withdraw enough at the airport. You can also find cash machines that work with international cards at 7-Eleven. Many places don't take Visa or Mastercard for withdrawing money</li>
<li>The Japanese do however have contact-less, but only if you use one of their cards. A popular pre paid card is the SUICA - <a href="https://matcha-jp.com/en/30" target="_blank">here's</a> how to buy one. You can use the SUICA to pay for transport, or at grocery stores</li>
<li>Where possible try to eat where the locals are eating!</li>
<li>Favour fresh, local produce over mass-produced or touristy offerings</li>
<li>The Japanese do not have a tipping culture. If you tip them, they will follow you and chase you to return your money.</li>
<li>Be respectful especially towards temples and religious buildings, in following custom, covering up and removing shoes when stepping inside</li>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-weight: normal;">That's it!</span></h4>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Hope you enjoyed this post and found it informative! If you liked it, please share it with someone who will find it useful. If you've been to one of these places or have something to say - let me know in the comments below!</span></h4>
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Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com2Japan36.204824 138.2529249.549143 96.944330000000008 62.860505 179.561518tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-25235222725802944742018-07-19T08:25:00.000+01:002018-08-18T20:05:13.344+01:00The Insider's Guide to Exploring Cusco Like a Local <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Are you looking for non-touristy things to do in Cusco? Do what the locals do? Read on to find out alternative Cusco experiences!<br />
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The beauty of spending a bit of time in Cusco is that you get to do things most tourists don't have time for. You can get to know the real Cusco with its markets and people. With its communities, festivals and traditions.<br />
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I've drawn from personal experiences, friends' and local recommendations to write this list.<br />
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<a href="https://mailchi.mp/fa0e36604082/freeguidetoperu" target="_blank">Before you keep reading...I've also written a 1-page guide to Peru. It's a free downloadable PDF packed with everything you need to know. You can find it here</a></h4>
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Get Your Art & Culture Fix in San Blas</h2>
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Known as The Balcony of Cusco (because of its location above the Plaza de Armas), <b>San Blas</b> is the heart of the town. It's been the home of artisans and artists since Inca times. Even today you'll find galleries and craft stores dotted along the cobbled streets. On Saturdays, there are art fairs, music, dances and lots of local food on the streets. Take your time going through the markets and admiring the high-quality crafts.<br />
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Wander into the <b>Galería de Hilario Mendivil</b> (Hilario Mendivil Museum). When he was a small boy, Mendivil took inspiration from parading llamas at a Corpus Chisti procession. Later, he started painting religious art with long necks. His art is unique, vibrant, and known the world-over. What's best - the museum is free.<br />
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When your tummy is rumbling, pop into <b>Pachapapa</b>. This highly-recommended joint has an outdoor patio and clay oven. They make fresh, authentic food with flavours that burst and excite. Their different flavours of fresh lemonade are refreshing, as is their Pisco-based drinks selection.<br />
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After lunch, another splendid place to see some Cusqueñan Art is the Gallery in <b>Mérida's House</b>.<br />
This is the family home of Edilberto Mérida, whose style is more European, less traditional. He sculpted figures with disproportionate and caricature-like features. His pieces centre around Indigenous socio-political angst. Indigenous oppression is a long-standing feature of Peruvian history. See if you can catch a glimpse of Indigenous Jesus Christ - one of his most renown pieces, which captures this angst.<br />
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Whilst you're at it - pottering in and out of galleries - check out the old <b>San Blas church</b>.<br />
Built in 1563, it still has features like the amazing pulpit, carved out of Cedar. Several pieces of traditional religious art are also on display.<br />
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After getting inspired, pop into art supply shop <b>El Changarro</b>. Here, get a little set of colouring pencils and card. Then perch yourself by a window high up in a cafe of your choice and get creative whilst sipping on Mate de Coca. There is no lack of inspiring scenes to draw!<br />
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For a completely different vibe, also stroll San Blas at night. The bars, restaurants and cafe get filled with music and an electric energy.<br />
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<h2>
Eat Like a Local in San Pedro Market</h2>
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Markets are a central part of local life in any town. This is where people get their fruits, veggies, meats, cheese, clothes and other goods. The place is huge and full of life - every corner you turn is a sensory-overload experience.<br />
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Start on the dry goods area and see if you find alpaca jumpers, hats, gloves or any other souvenirs to take home. Prices are much cheaper here, and there's the option to bargain.<br />
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Further in, merchants sell goods wholesale or in units. When I'm here, I stock up on quinoa - they've red, black and white! If you're not in the mood to carry your food, why not eat it? Check out the stalls with menus and see what they're serving up. Food here is cheap and cheerful - just make sure you find a busy post (it means it's good!).<br />
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If you're staying in Cusco for a while and have access to a kitchen, pick up fresh ingredients. Get Chuta bread (Andean brea unique to Peru) and some Queso Paria (Paria cheese) for a delicious brekkie. Or seek out Aguaymanto juice. This fruit grows only in elevated regions and it's refreshing and sharp.<br />
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<h2>
Go Birdwatching: Day Hike to Chonta Andean Condor Lookout</h2>
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If you are keen to get out of the town for a day trip, this is the perfect activity. A 2 hour drive takes you through beautiful landscapes ending up at <b>Chonta</b> town. From here, an hour and half hike takes you to the <b>Condor lookout</b>. You'll drive through tiny communities and lunch shoulder-to-shoulder with locals.<br />
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The spot is beginning to become more popular as day tours to the Chonta lookout increase. Tour agencies charge foreigners between $30 - 50 for a day trip (lunch included). But you can also do this by yourself, in your own time. This trip is best done with friends or a group of 4 (so you can share the costs).<br />
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Get a reputable driver through the grapevine (ask around for recommendations). A full day driver will charge you around S/100 - 150 and you get to choose the itinerary.<br />
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Go from Cusco to <b>Killarumiyoc</b> (archeological site) and see the Moon carved on the mountain. You might have to pay around S/10 to get in there. From then on, continue towards <b>Limatambo</b>. Have a spot of lunch before you set off for Chonta. Here's where the fun starts. Follow the signs for the Chonta lookout - it's a 3.5km hike. A S/10 is payable on entry, but once here, you're free to sit and watch the Condors soar.<br />
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The best time to arrive at the lookout for maximum Condor viewing is between 13:00 and 16:30. Don't forget to wear light clothing, hiking shoes, sun lotion, hat, sunnies and binoculars.<br />
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This day trip takes the whole day - from around 8AM to 8PM.<br />
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<h2>
Uncover Cusco's Nooks and Crannies by Foot</h2>
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Yes, the historical centre is beautiful, picturesque and full of energy. But every-day Cusco lies beyond the few streets surrounding the Plaza de Arms.<br />
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Walk to <b>Cristo Blanco</b> - White Christ - on top of a hill on a road leading to Sacsayhuaman. It's an easy 25 minute walk from the Plaza de Armas. Head into San Blas and then walk North East. From here you can get pretty stunning views of Cusco.<br />
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On the opposite direction - South East of the Plaza de Armas - wander into the <b>Iglesia y Convento San Francisco</b>. The 17th Century Convent and Church has been thoroughly restored. It includes colonial artwork, frescoes and displays of skulls and bones. On a beautiful day you can leisurely walk its length and enjoy fresh air in the patio.<br />
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Having worked up an appetite, walk down the street to nearby <b>Antojitos</b>. This is a local eatery that serves up humungus dishes - just like the locals eat. Try pesto pasta topped with steak or 'pollo broster' and chaufa. And fear not, this will replenish your energies right up.<br />
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Added bonus: from the same street you can also see the <b>Arco de Santa Clara</b>. This arch was built under commission from Marshal Andrés de Santa Cruz in 1835. It was meant as a symbol to celebrate the linking of Perú and Bolivia under the now-defunct Confederation. Granted, you can't miss the arch, it's in a very busy area. But the best part is to stand in an area (where you're safe!) and have a look around at what's going on around you.<br />
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These are just a couple of ideas to walk around. There are plenty of things to see and discover as you walk outside the boundaries of tourist-town. There are unwilling lookouts, areas where you can see school kids play during recess or practice festival dances. You can follow a wall-art/mural trail. The possibilities are endless.<br />
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<h2>
Explore the Countryside on Horseback</h2>
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OK. This is slightly more touristy but still not too touristy. Locals only do this on their own horses and far away from tourist sites (I imagine. I don't know. I don't have a horse.).<br />
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There are a number of families that own well-kept and well-trained horses in the area. These are up for hire and include a 'guide' - merely a boy or a young man who will make sure you're safe and the horses make it back to the rendevouz.<br />
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The circuit is well-planned. The one I'm talking about doesn't take you to any ruins where you've got to have a Boleto Turístico to get in. Instead, this circuit takes your through the country, through grassy fields and hilly bits. You get to ride the horse yourself - if you're experienced enough, so you go at your own pace. On the way, you (and the horses) get a chance to rest at some ruins. These spots are free of tourists (mostly). The whole thing lasts about 3 hours and is a fantastic, well-recommended experience. Even if you've never ridden a horse before.<br />
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Online, tours can be booked for this circuit or for the main Inca sites for about £50 per person. Ludicrous! We got a reputable agency with an office in the Plaza de Armas to sort out 3 horses (for my brother, for Chris & I) plus transportation to the meeting point and back for around S/70 per person (about £15 each). We made sure we'd pay the boy with the horses directly once we'd ridden, and we tipped generously. If we had to pay more, we would. But at least we want to know the money is going towards the horse/business owners.<br />
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A word of advice on hiring services with working animals. Working animals should be treated respectfully. Some ways in which you can spot if the animals are in good condition is to check their coat. Does it look shiny? Also, ask for horses that are rested - don't take some that have just come back from another trip. Make sure they've been fed and have had water. You can state this to the agent before hand, so that they know you're ready to walk away if show you to animals in sub-standard conditions.<br />
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<h2>
Shake It Up in Cusco's Bars</h2>
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It's been said that the nightlife in Cusco is as varied as Peruvian gastronomy (hint: very varied). There is something for everyone. From tranquil grown-up bars, to joints with traditional musicians, to karaokes, cosmopolitan clubs, rowdy pubs and salsa bars.<br />
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Start your night as everyone else does, at <b>Fallen Angel</b>, with some copas of Pisco Sour. Shaped to be a 'Cultural Boutique', this restaurant & bar exquisitely decorated with rustic art and vibrant colours.<br />
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Follow Fallen Angel with <b>Rock House Cafe</b> to mingle with locals. Here, you get some pretty good live rock bands and tribute bands playing 80s rock week in and week out. Drink cold Cusqueñas and hit up a conversation with a stranger.<br />
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Other great live music is to be had at <b>Ukuku's</b>. With nightly live music, this place attracts a great crowd of locals and visitors alike. They play everything from Afro-Peruvian to Reggae and are open until the wee hours. The dance-floor is on fire.<br />
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If proper clubbing is your thing, <b>Mama Africa</b> is the place to be. Right on the Plaza de Armas, this is where everyone and their mother goes dancing.<br />
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If prefer to skip the bars and get a flavour for Peruvian dance instead, go to the <b>Centro Qosqo de Arte Nativo</b>. This is a cultural centre working for the preservation of Native Art and Dance. They hold dances almost nightly and tickets are not expensive. Their auditorium is rather worn and looks more like a school hall, but the dances are fantastic. The show goes over an hour and a half and showcases different dances from all Peruvian regions.<br />
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<h2>
Visit the Master Toymaker and Take a Unique Piece Home</h2>
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Let me let you in to Cusco's best-kept secret. Franklin Alvarez is an artist making artefacts of times gone by. His wooden pieces are intricately designed and awaken a certain nostalgia. They are wondrous pieces of engineering and imagination: wooden toys.<br />
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They are like nothing you've ever seen. He dreams up toys that live in magical worlds and then builds them with his own hands. He then hand paints them in vibrant, crazy colours - in true Cusqueñan style. You can even customise yours.<br />
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I should say, he might be a 'toymaker' but his toys are no toys. They are pieces of art. His work has been showcased in several fairs across the country and he's appeared on TV. Despite his incredible craftsmanship, he doesn't have a big store or brand name. To buy his toys you need to visit his house - his workshop.<br />
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I'll leave you a video of his work. If you want to get in touch with him, email him at afranklint@hotmail.com<br />
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<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fGDhC4cjRU0?rel=0&start=34" width="560"></iframe>
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If you'd rather take something more customised home, you can also make your own ceramics. <b>Kutiry</b> (www.kutiry.com) organise and run ceramic workshops. You get to choose what you make, decorate it, and take it home.<br />
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<h2>
Soak Your Worries Away in Colcamayo Hot Spring Baths</h2>
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I am a superfan of hot spring baths. There is nothing more relaxing than lowering into a devilishly hot bath in the middle of a valley. The surrounding scenery is awe-inspiring. Stew your muscles as you overlook the mountains, especially good after a long day of walking around.<br />
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Head to <b>Colcamayo Hot Spring Baths</b> before 4PM to catch it quiet. Any later and you'll have to share with the dozens of people descending from their respective treks.<br />
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<h2>
A Few Words on Sustainable Travel</h2>
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Over 1.5M tourists visit Cusco every year so there's a huge impact we're making by just being there. There are a few things we can all do to reduce our footprint. And not just on the environment but also on the people whose homes we're visiting.. Here are some easy one:<br />
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<li>Ask for permission before you take a photo of anyone. Ladies in traditional dress holding baby alpacas will ask you for a couple of coins in return for their photo</li>
<li>Take your rubbish with you and recycle it when you get the first opportunity</li>
<li>Carry a reusable water bottle and top-up when you can, using filtered water (never from tap). You can also carry your pump and purification tablets to make tap water safe for drinking</li>
<li>Do not engage in practices that handle non-domesticated animals</li>
<li>Used shared transportation whenever possible and workable</li>
<li>Do not eat or buy endangered animals</li>
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<h4>
I hope this guide inspires you to unearth Cusco's mysteries and get to know the city and its dwellers. If you've tried one or more of the things on this list please let me know in the comments! Or if you think something is missing, I'd love to hear your recommendation too.</h4>
Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Cusco, Peru-13.53195 -71.967462599999976-13.655454 -72.128824099999974 -13.408446 -71.806101099999978tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-30420746382955913702018-07-18T17:58:00.000+01:002018-07-27T21:34:53.276+01:00 A Perfect Weekend in Brittany, Land of Culture & Medieval Towns<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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We spent a perfect weekend in the Brittany towns of Rennes, Mont St Michel, St Malo, Dinan & Cancale - with local friends. Read on to get inspired!<br />
<a name='more'></a>I've been obsessed with medieval castles for as long as I can remember. So when our friends in Rennes invited us over for a weekend getaway, we replied with a quick and resounding YES.<br />
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Brittany lies on the Southern side of the English Channel. During Roman occupation it was known as Armorica ("place by the sea"). Since then, it has been both an independent kingdom and a feudal state before becoming part of France in the 16th Century.<br />
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Part of the beauty of Brittany's rich heritage is that much of it is still well-preserved. Today, Brittany retains its own language (or two). It's also home to many of the world's oldest architectural sites. To top it all, it's scattered with Romanesque and French Gothic medieval buildings. It's a region of legends and fairytales - King Arthur and Merlin are both associated with Brittany, as is Ys - the city that the ocean swallowed.<br />
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<h2>
Easing into Rennes</h2>
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We start our trip by heading out into the little town. It's a dream.<br />
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You can walk everywhere and the place is peppered with ancient roads and half-timbered buildings. The first night is all about socialising and getting to know a very important side of the town - the pubs! We meet our friends' friends and the night progresses we visit more and more pubs and meet more and more people.<br />
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The next morning we get to an early start as we hit the Saturday farmer’s market. As a cheese-lover this is the perfect opportunity to buy the smelliest cheese possible. We spend the morning buying olives, cheeses, saucisson, bread and wines. We even try traditional sausage crepes - these delicious, soft and perfectly savoury pancakes.<br />
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When our bags are heaving with smelly stuff, we head towards a pub. Here we sit, warming our faces under the winter sun. Our friends and their friends join us and together we make a for a typical French scene. We're eating bread and cheese alfresco.<br />
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<h2>
Saint-Malo Historic Port & Walled City</h2>
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That afternoon we drive to Saint Malo. This historic port and fortified city has a long history of piracy. It's also amongst the most beautiful cities in the world.<br />
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The sky is deep blue with a golden haze. The light makes everything crisp. We walk by the marina and Yacht club through the beach to get to the fortress.<br />
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The walk around the walls of the fortress is out of this world. As the sun begins to kiss the horizon, the colours intensify and burst. The sky is now partly grey in an ominous sign of the rain to come. The mix between rays of sun and the heavy clouds is eerie.<br />
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We don't fancy getting wet, and as it's getting colder, we nip back in and find some sweet treats.<br />
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Here comes one of my top 10 travel foods. As we walk through stalls, our friends point at rolls made of butter, sugar and flour. I don't normally like super sweet things, and this doesn't even sound like out of the ordinary. But we give these things a go. They’re called Kouign Amman.<br />
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They’re the food of the Gods! Warm, buttery rolls from heaven, melts in your mouth – delicious.<br />
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We ended the stay in Saint Malo with a good couple of pints of the good stuff at a pub decorated like a jungle. They were playing Christmas reggae carols. Sweet.<br />
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There’s always room for trying new things. And so, an hour or two later when we were back in Rennes, we went to try some more savoury crepes. I decided to be brave and try one made of pork’s insides. No specifics about what “insides” may entail. Well what I got looked like this:<br />
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It stunk of cat food but tasted quite nice. It was a complex situation as I smelled it and went… peugh!! And then ate it and went… Hmmmmm! It was kind of a peugh-mmmm situation (like cheese).<br />
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<h2>
Cancale: Oysters & Wine!</h2>
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The third day was my favourite. There was sensory overload of things I love. We started with a road-trip to the picturesque fishing town of Cancale, just east of Saint-Malo.<br />
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As we arrived I noticed stands next to the sea selling mussels and Oysters! Since Cancale is the Oyster capital of Brittany, we had to stop and taste these first-hand.<br />
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We bought a dozen and sat by the lighthouse taking in the washed-out horizon. Today it was hazy and foggy. But we imagined it looked amazing in the sunshine. We could make out the silhouette of Mount St Michel through the haze.<br />
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Throughout the short trip our mates introduced us to countless of their mates, and we’d hung out together. It was no different today. BonBon (let’s call him that) sat there teaching me how to shackle Oysters before drizzling them in lemon juice and slurping them down!<br />
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We then hit one of the seaside restaurants for classic mussels and chips (Moules-Frites) before setting off to Mount Saint Michel.<br />
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Now I kid you not, we saw kangaroos on the fields on our way from Cancales to Mount Saint Michel. If anyone can explain that, that would be fantastic.<br />
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<h2>
Sunset in Le Mont Saint Michel</h2>
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Freshly arrived at the area around Le Mont Saint Michel, we started walking towards it. It was impressive beyond belief. As a child, one hears of things like these in fairy-tales and films of princesses and castles. But one never imagines they’re real, and they’re standing right before one’s eyes.<br />
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If you are visiting Paris, you must at least give yourself a day to visit Le Mont Saint Michel. It would be completely ludicrous not to.<br />
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You can only reach the island when the sea is in low tide. It was built this way so that pilgrims could reach it, yet it would be easy to defend it from attack. It has stood this way since the 8th Century!<br />
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No day would be complete without cheese and bread, so when we got back home that's what we dined on. Throw in some more oysters (which I’d run back to buy before we left Cancale) and full red French wine. By the way - if you tip your wine into a decanter an hour before serving it, it tastes much, much better.<br />
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On our last day we spent a few hours walking around Rennes before heading to Dinan.<br />
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<h2>
Fairtytale Town: Dinan</h2>
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On our way to the airport we stopped in a town called Dinan that was just the cutest little thing. I felt transported to the medieval times – I felt like Drew Barrymore in Ever After (i.e. Cinderella).<br />
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During this weekend we've already seen pretty impressive medieval fortresses. But this is a whole town that's older than your granddad's long johns!<br />
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Dinan is an attractive small fortress town perched on a hillside that overlooks the river Rance. There are obvious fantastic sights like towers and castles. But the true joy comes from exploring the cobbled streets and alleyways, the cosy bars and crêperies.<br />
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Less than an hour later we are back in London. After this whirlwind romance with Brittany I don't want to go back to real life. But can I tell you a secret? It feels good living somewhere where, no matter where in the world you’ve been, you’re still amazed by how green, lush and beautiful your home town is. The perfect homecoming to the perfect weekend.<br />
<h4>
Did we miss your favourite Bretton spot? I'd <i>love</i> to hear it. Share it in the comments below!</h4>
Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Brittany, France48.2020471 -2.9326435000000445.486543600000005 -8.09621750000004 50.9175506 2.2309304999999595tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-15197797183556862602018-07-15T12:43:00.000+01:002018-08-18T20:05:29.998+01:00A Day in Iquitos - Belen Market, Eiffel House and a Crazy Rubber Baron<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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When planning a trip to the Amazon jungle, it's likely you'll end up with a day to explore Iquitos, the metropolitan jungle city.<br />
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Iquitos is bustling and vibrant. It is a juxtaposition of modern comforts set in a backdrop of dense jungle foliage. It is sensory-overload of tastes, sounds and the buzz of the daily life of about half a million people.<br />
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We kinda 'ended up here' after spending an <a href="https://journographietravel.blogspot.com/2018/05/responsible-travel-amazon-jungle-peru.html" target="_blank">incredible 4 days deep in the jungle, meeting the Yaguas tribe, finding Caymans in the night, watching pink dolphins and getting up close with prehistoric fish the size of a grown up</a>. We have a full day to explore. If you're wondering what to do in Iquitos in 24 hours, read on!<br />
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<h2>
The Belen Market - Mercado Belen</h2>
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The morning is cool. We start with a visit to the Belen markets, a local souk where you can find almost anything. From spices and tropical fruits, to live animals and snake poison. The market gets busy very quickly and it's full of pickpockets. Apply your standard travelling stances of awareness and pay attention here - especially with your camera.<br />
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We walk past people, looking in every direction, trying to take it all in. But it isn't fun, quite the opposite. It's absolutely hectic, smelly, things going on all the time, you don't know where to turn. It would have been a better idea to seek out a guide and let them show us around, but because I'm Peruvian, I thought we could manage without. Perhaps we would've enjoyed it more like that. Perhaps.<br />
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<h2>
Quistococha Tourist Centre</h2>
We don't last very long and soon make our way out and climb on a mototaxi (tuktuk). We're headed for Quistococha, a tourist complex centre with an artificial beach, a restaurant, aquarium and a museum. The ride there only takes about 25 minutes but it could easily have been a thrill ride at your local theme park.<br />
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Finally, we're here. Getting off that damned tuktuk is the best thing that's happened to me all day. We've paid our entry fee and now walk under a canopy of trees. The vast natural space is tranquil and as our lungs fill with the purest oxygen (ever). I hadn't noticed it earlier but our ears are now thanking us for the clement respite from the city's noise pollution.<br />
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We walk around aimlessly. There's a zoo inside this complex - had I known this I wouldn't have come. We didn't plan this very well - we just wanted to get out of the markets and we'd heard a bit about this place. Oh well, we're here now.<br />
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By the manmade beach there is a restaurant with some outdoor tables. As we approach we can see smoke coming from a grill. On closer inspection, a woman has an array of animals on it and is basting them, eyeing us suspiciously. It's only 11AM. Amongst the offenders, I spot fish, crocodile leg, pork...<br />
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We find a seat and order some typical regional food: tacacho con cecina (smoked pork and plantain) and eat it under the watchful eye of some colourful macaws.<br />
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<h2>
Plaza de Armas and Stories of Bygone Times</h2>
Back in town the best way to see it all is to walk outwards from the Plaza de Armas (Main Square). The Main Square is where all the buzz takes place - and the vibe is different during the day and during the night.<br />
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From the Square, check out the Iron House - La Casa de Fierro. Designed by Gustave Eiffel in the mid 19th Century during the Rubber Boom (more on this later), it ended up here after futile attempts to transport it further South. Since the house was large, it had to be imported in segments, but eventually the pieces were never put back together and this is one of three segments remaining. Today there's souvenir shops and a restaurant.<br />
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If you're wandering, continue meandering in and out of buildings and churches - Iglesia San Juan Bautista is not far from the Square and worth a nip into. Though most places here don't have a "wow-factor" in terms of architecture (or any other terms), strolling and observing is a good way to get a feel for the town.<br />
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A lot of the buildings you'll see were built in bygone times of wealth that came with the Rubber Boom. Famous Rubber Baron Carlos Fitzcarraldo arrived in the area to exploit the riches of the Amazon Basin. In his madness to extract the treasures from the deep jungle, he forced native tribes to dismantle and drag a steamship piece by piece over the mountain.<br />
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El Boulevard - The Boardwalk</h2>
Later on the day we stroll on the <i>boulevard</i>, the boardwalk next to the Amazon river. From here you see the river: floating houses, people loading up boats, the jungle. You also see the businesses that face the river, the restaurants with elegant people on some, locals having a bite at others. It's a great place for a stroll and to people-watch. We spot some school kids hanging around after school. We take a place by the <i>malecon</i> and take it all in once last time, before we bid Iquitos goodbye.<br />
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If you've been to Iquitos lots of times or you're a local, we'd love to hear from you. What are your favourite places to eat, see and do there? Share it with us in the comments below.</h4>
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<a href="https://mailchi.mp/fa0e36604082/freeguidetoperu" target="_blank">You can also download our free PDF 1-page guide to Peru in 2 weeks. It's packed with the best places to visit and things to try. Get it here.</a></h4>
Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Iquitos, Peru-3.7436735 -73.2516326-3.8704305 -73.412994099999992 -3.6169165 -73.0902711tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-57482079656047235012018-05-24T11:16:00.000+01:002018-08-18T20:01:22.373+01:00 4th of July in NYC: Non-touristy Things to Do<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Forget the touristy guides to a 4th of July in New York. This is the local's guide to having a good time.</div>
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Coney Island & Nathan's Hot Dog Eating Contest</h2>
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Competitive Eating is a thing. When I first heard of it I thought, “finally! something I can excel at!” eating is my pastime numero uno. But no, this is nothing like it. This is an activity in which contestants try to eat as much of a certain food as possible in as little time. In Coney Island this something is hot dogs.<br />
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The whole thing is insane. The contest has been going on since 1972 and it attracts thousands of people (the majority being locals to the US!). The whole industry is as intriguing as it is sad. I learnt so much about it through research for a documentary Chris wanted to film around it.</div>
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Contestants train their bodies for these contests in different ways. For instance, they expand their stomachs until they can hold an enormous amount of food. They do this by eating an incremental amount of food over time. They also have techniques to make food slide down their digestive systems faster. On top of this, the process includes fasting and vomiting.<br />
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Not only is competitive eating a huge trauma for contestants' bodies, it is very wasteful. Over $165B in food goes wasted in America every year. Eating contests make a contribution to that.<br />
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So no, I don't encourage you to go to the actual food eating contest.<br />
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Instead, this morning we leave our Brooklyn Airbnb in search of a different kind of experience.<br />
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Coney Island is in itself a super interesting place to visit. Yes, it might be past its heyday but that's exactly what makes it intriguing. Forget what it was and look at what it is. Look past the old park rides and roller-coasters. Explore the neighborhood, watch the people. Sit and observe. Smell the smells, walk the streets and soak up the sounds.<br />
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Brighton Beach and Little Odessa</h2>
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We walk East along the boardwalk to an area dubbed Little Odessa, a town with a high concentration of Russian-speaking immigrants.<br />
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We wander into one of the many Russian delis on Neptune Avenue to pick up bits we can take back to the seaside to lunch on. Finding what we want is a bit of a struggle: we can't read most of the labels on the products.<br />
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The place is bustling with people, and because it's so small, it's impossible to navigate it and browse. The other customers are kind and let us pass through. No one speaks a word of English. At the counter, a woman is cutting cheese up for a man as they chat animatedly.<br />
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Anna speaks a little Russian. She uses it to ask the counter lady for a few things, including a beetroot salad and some pickles.<br />
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We head back towards Brighton Beach and pick a bench on the boardwalk. We can see a couple of older ladies sitting on a bench chatting under their huge hats, locals walking their dogs. Everyone is sunburnt and look like they have been most of their lives. Men wear tiny tight swimmers, their round bellies proudly protruding.<br />
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When we've had our fill of sunshine and people-watching, we head back to our flat to rest and get ready for the evening.</div>
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Barbecue in Brooklyn</h2>
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As we're walking up to the Airbnb rental, there’s a certain buzz on the street. Our neighbours sit outside listening to music, chilling and chatting to each other. The kids play near the fire hydrants. Our neighbours spot us and wave. They want to let us know they're having a BBQ with music, drinks, games & fun and we're invited. We thank them profusely but we've got plans so we have to turn this rather awesome opportunity down.<br />
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If you have friends in New York, a barbecue is a great way to spend time away from the tourist crowds. If you don't, you can always head to a designated BBQ area in one of the many amazing parks in Brooklyn, try Prospect Park. Whatever you do, remember to take your rubbish with you and to BBQ responsibly away from trees, tree roots or building.<br />
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Local Beers in a Brewery or Fun in a Dive Bar</h2>
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In the evening we head to Manhattan where we walk around to find a spot to have a few drinks. We’re after a spot that’s relaxed and fun. We find it not far from Times Square – of all places. It’s an Irish Pub with an incredibly friendly barman. We sit at the bar and the drinks flow freely all night. A piece of advice – open a tab and tip your server when you get your drinks. Our bartender keeps topping our G&Ts and Margaritas all night and best of all, our bill at the end was reasonable.<br />
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A good alternative is to find local Breweries and sample some artisan beers. There are several Breweries scattered mostly away from Manhattan. Brooklyn Brewery, Bronx Brewery and Chelsea Craft Brewing Co are but a few. In Manhattan, there’s Birreria (a rooftop above Eataly with pop-up food), and Heartland Brewery.<br />
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Watch the Fireworks by the Hudson</h2>
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We leave the bar and walk West to the Hudson river - the best place to spot the Macy’s fireworks - but they've already started. We end up in the middle of the street, in the midst of a light crowd. The chatter has died down as we all stare up in awe at these marvellous displays of bursting light.<br />
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End the Night with Drinks at a Rooftop</h2>
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We head back home before midnight and take a few bottles of beers to the rooftop where we're staying. We get a good view of Manhattan from up here. And as New Yorkers shoot their fireworks into the sky, we sit and talk about life, travels and friendship into the early hours.<br />
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What are <i>your </i>favourite things to do in New York on the 4th of July?</h4>
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<i>This post was originally published July 2012 and has since been updated.</i>Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0New York, NY, USA40.7127753 -74.005972839.9423093 -75.296866299999991 41.483241299999996 -72.7150793tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-56651551615072878132018-05-01T23:20:00.000+01:002018-08-18T20:05:49.416+01:00Exploring the Peruvian Amazon Jungle Responsibly: Iquitos<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vHCz0Zp3fD8/Wwhng1iY0uI/AAAAAAAALNM/ShvmQZAuoUMdIZt5YJUzpA6TKWxv5IxyACLcBGAs/s1600/amazon-ecotour-iquitos-peru-responsible-travel-24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1080" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vHCz0Zp3fD8/Wwhng1iY0uI/AAAAAAAALNM/ShvmQZAuoUMdIZt5YJUzpA6TKWxv5IxyACLcBGAs/s1600/amazon-ecotour-iquitos-peru-responsible-travel-24.jpg" /></a><br />
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Finding tours and experiences to visit the Peruvian Amazon is easy. The hard part is finding tours, guides and experiences with truly responsible ecotourism practices.<br />
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As you may already know, I'm Peruvian. Yet I first visited the Amazon for the first time only a few years ago when Chris and I were visiting my family for the holidays. When mum mentioned we could go on a jungle adventure for four days, including flights, lodging, meals and excursions, for £320/ US$500 (for both of us!) we booked our trip without thinking it twice.<br />
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<a href="https://mailchi.mp/fa0e36604082/freeguidetoperu" target="_blank">Before you keep reading... I also wrote a guide to 2 Weeks in Peru. It's a free downloadable 1-page PDF and you can get it here.</a></h4>
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Where Can You Stay in The Amazon Rainforest? Eco-Friendly Accommodation</h2>
Since the rise of Eco-tourism in Peru in the 70s, there's been a boom in Ecolodges and sustainable tourism operators. Trips to the Amazon are generally booked as a package because lodges lie in remote locations. Activities, transport, food, etc. are all organised for small groups at a time, and you can see what each lodge offers on their websites.<br />
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We booked a 4 day/3 night package with <a href="http://www.cumaceba.com/">Cumaceba Lodges and Tours</a> because they were recommended to us by my mum's trusted travel agent (a small independent business). The lodge uses sustainable energy (solar panels charge a generator that is turned on during reduced hours in the evening) and it has low environmental impact facilities.<br />
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I've done some digging into alternative lodges that are certified green. Though a lot of the material seems to suggest there are varying degrees of sustainability, I found out Rainforest Alliance has their own certification (<a href="https://www.rainforest-alliance.org/faqs/what-does-rainforest-alliance-certified-mean">Rainforest Alliance Certified™</a>) and they carry out audits on specific practices before giving their seal of approval. The only lodge in the Northern Amazonian jungle that is RA Certified is The Tahuayo Lodge.<br />
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What Can You Do in the Amazon Rainforest? Adventures and Animal Welfare</h2>
We were welcomed at the airport in Iquitos and taken to a small hostel in town. From there, we caught a motorised canoe to our lodge in the jungle. Lodges are elevated to avoid flash floods from the overflowing river and to stay out of the way of snakes and other crawlers.<br />
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One of the things that first hits you when you go to the jungle is the oppressive heat and humidity. The canopy of trees under which the lodge lies is a welcome retreat.<br />
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The lodge consists of several huts interconnected by raised steps or walkways. There's a dining area and a chilling out area with hammocks. As we step onto the main area, we're handed Camu-camu juice and then we're ushered into our hut to freshen up before lunch.<br />
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For lunch we eat delicious fried fish with traditional jungle accompaniments: fried bananas, beans with salsa, rice and Camu-camu sauce. Jungle lodges are very good in catering for vegans, vegetarians, gluten-free, etc. - you just need to make sure you state your dietary needs/preferences well in advance (at the time of booking). The cooking is basic (and so is the kitchen, powered by an open flame and the most rudimentary of tools) but the food is tasty and fresh. Everything is sourced on location.<br />
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Soon after lunch, we we're off on our first excursion. We board the motorised canoe again to visit the land of a family that keeps several animals in what's dubbed an "animal sanctuary" or rescue centre. I'm not sure how much of an animal sanctuary this really is.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B7HBfeNryLY/WwhnjxQX9aI/AAAAAAAALNw/Z_8RvsJv4akKURIdUmOlWq8uMqgvS4aewCLcBGAs/s1600/amazon-ecotour-iquitos-peru-responsible-travel-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img alt="Chris Reed and monkey in the Amazonian jungle" border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-B7HBfeNryLY/WwhnjxQX9aI/AAAAAAAALNw/Z_8RvsJv4akKURIdUmOlWq8uMqgvS4aewCLcBGAs/s1600/amazon-ecotour-iquitos-peru-responsible-travel-6.jpg" title="Journographie: responsible travel on the road less-known" /></a><br />
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There's Capuchin Monkeys, turtles, sloths, birds and a boa constrictor. They're all roaming freely, but visitors are allowed to interact with the wildlife (even hold the boa), which is not considered a responsible animal welfare practice. Chris and I stay clear of the animals except to photograph them - but soon a monkey climbs atop Chris and starts rubbing her bits all over his head!<br />
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Before we return to the lodge we go looking for pink and grey dolphins. We get lucky and spot several feeding and happily jumping out of the water. A small boy in our party has brought his swimming trunks with him and is now going for a swim in the Amazon river. We don't tell him about the piranhas.<br />
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Back in the lodge there's time for relaxation. At some point between the hammock naps and the unlimited trips to get tea I decide to nip into the kitchen and try to learn a thing or two about regional cooking.<br />
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After dinner we go looking for Caymans (similar to crocs) in the dark. There's no moon, only the faint light from the stars shining above us. There are a thousand noises of the jungle at night - it's overwhelming and beautiful and powerful all at once. There's the croak of toads, the chirp of birds and the buzzing of cicadas.<br />
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The darkness is interrupted with tiny specks of light from light worms and fireflies flying here and there. The guides are experts, they sail smoothly and incredibly quietly, shining their torches looking for a pair of red eyes. At one point our guide captures a small Cayman (definitely not ethical!) and passes it to me - I'm sat just behind him. Behind me, there's 5 other people including Chris, all in a line in this narrow canoe. I can't see anything but I'm warned that I must hold on tight otherwise the Cayman can shake and free itself. If it does, it will bite me. I'm not impressed with this.<br />
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<h2>
Tribal Tourism: Meeting the Yaguas Tribe</h2>
The next morning I wake to the most amazing birdsong. The noise this bird makes is like it's dropping into water, then coming out and singing. In the distance someone's beating a drum made out of hollowed tree-trunk: it's breakfast time.<br />
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At breakfast we're told we're going to visit the Yaguas tribe. This is a tribe native to the area with only about 4,000 tribe members left. they live in independent communities (due to the distance between communities), led by a chief priest. Their main economic activities are fishing, hunting, gathering and itinerant agriculture. The small group we'll see today also produce handicrafts and make an income from tourist visits and from selling these handicrafts.<br />
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We meet the Yaguas and learn about them, deforestation and the practices that disrupt them and drive them away from their homes for the gain of large corporations and industry. After a chat, we get time to interact and talk to the tribe. We get face paint and are taught how to use the Cerbatana (blowgun) - I hit the target on the first go.<br />
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In order to write this blog post, I research the Yaguas community and enter "Cerbatana" on google images. I find several images of the same Chief Priest I saw all those years ago - he must be so much older now. I feel saddened at the thought of this group of people having to meet tourists day after day for years on end to make a living, but I am glad to have met them and learnt about their way of life and the practices that endanger their communities.<br />
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<h2>
Paiche Farm and Piranha Fishing</h2>
We go back to the lodge for lunch and some more hammock time. In the afternoon we visit a "Paiche" farm set in a village off the river. The Paiche is an Amazonian pre-historic fish the size of a large human adult. In recent years its meat has become prized for Peruvian and Brasilian cooking, and farmed Paiches get exported to the States and beyond. You may have tasted it if you've been to Sushi Samba or if you buy your groceries at Whole Foods.<br />
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Luckily, thanks to extensive conservation efforts, the government announced that Paiches were no longer in danger of extinction in the region.<br />
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Later in the night the party goes looking for tarantulas - I give it a miss and read a book under my solar-powered bedside lamp, feeling itchy.<br />
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On our last day in the jungle we go Piranha fishing. Fishing in the Amazon is tightly controlled - and is only allowed for personal consumption, not for commercial purposes. Chris & I catch a few Piranhas, which are cooked for us later that night by the lodge staff.<br />
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The following day we return to Iquitos town by boat. We spend a day and a night there exploring the town and market - we wrote about it here.<br />
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<h2>
Closing Thoughts</h2>
Our time in the jungle has been eye-opening. I have had more contact with nature in the last four days here than I've had in my entire life. The experience has left me thinking about the thousands of tourists visiting the Peruvian jungle every year and the efforts local government has made to ensure the preservation of wildlife, flora & local communities. Is enough being done to protect this area? I for once, know what I would do differently if I were to do this again.<br />
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If you're ready for your jungle experience, <a href="https://journographietravel.blogspot.co.uk/2018/05/amazon-rainforest-know-before-you-go.html" target="_blank">I wrote some tips you can't miss before you go</a> and some <a href="https://journographietravel.blogspot.com/2018/05/a-day-in-iquitos-things-to-do.html" target="_blank">stuff you can do in a day in Iquitos town</a>.<br />
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<h4>
<span style="font-weight: normal;"> Do you have any specific questions, need advice or have a great tip to share? We love to answer questions and discuss! Leave us a comment!</span></h4>
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<i>This post was originally published in 2012 and has since been updated. This is not a sponsored post.</i>Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com2Iquitos, Peru-3.7436735 -73.2516326-3.8704305 -73.412994099999992 -3.6169165 -73.0902711tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-13376863255646695892018-04-25T20:57:00.000+01:002018-08-18T20:06:06.472+01:00Peruvian Amazon Rainforest: 10 Things to Know Before You Go<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Heading to the Peruvian Amazon? Here are 10 tips for you ahead of your trip.<br />
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People visit Peru for Machu Picchu first and foremost. But a trip deep into the Peruvian Amazon is an unmissable experience that you can easily fit into your itinerary. Have you bitten the bullet yet? If you're already planning a trip to the jungle, here's what you need to know.</div>
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1. You can go pretty much anytime</h2>
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The Peruvian Amazon is hot and humid all year long but it's less rainy from May to September. That doesn't mean you should only consider visiting then, though, as most tourists will. I've been in the jungle in June and December and enjoy both times just as much. An advantage of going in December is that few people are travelling to the Amazon after Christmas and before New Years' Eve. Because of this, we only shared our trip with 2 other people in the tour. Another advantage of going in the rainy season is that rain increases fruit production, and as a result this increases animal activity and your chances of seeing fauna.</div>
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2. Yes you need a tour</h2>
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This is a question that pops up again and again. In order to go to the Amazon jungle you need an organised tour. Good Amazonian lodges have their own packages and hire expert guides who have deep knowledge of the area and the flora and fauna around. It's almost impossible to do "your own thing" unless you are well-connected and know people who can pick you up (on the boats), organise your permits (to enter the different conservation areas even as you navigate the river), organise your stay and get a private boat to take you to the different areas you'd like to see. It will also be much more expensive.</div>
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3. Get your jabs ahead of time</h2>
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Get your Tetanus and Yellow Fever vaccines at least 10 days before travel, earlier if you can. If you want to be super careful, <a href="http://www.fitfortravel.nhs.uk/destinations/south-america-antarctica/peru#Immunisations" target="_blank">here</a> is the UK's National Health Service advice for immunisations when travelling to Peru. You can also see any health warnings there. Don't worry if you forget your certificate - no one is likely to ask you for it. But do it for your peace of mind.</div>
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4. Take tons of mosquito repellent</h2>
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Even better if it's 100% DEET-free (DEET is a pollutant and an irritant). You can get some awesome super strong ones by Jason (available globally on Amazon) or Holland & Barrett in the UK. If you forget to buy it, ask your guide when you get to the lodge. They will either have some for sale or even better - will advice what plants or tree barks to rub on your skin to repel insects!</div>
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Other things to bring in your bag include long-sleeved cotton shirts, light-coloured clothes, socks and closed shoes or boots. All of these will help avoid bites when walking around the jungle or near the water. Your lodge is very likely to have mosquito nets around the beds, so you should be safe at night.</div>
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5. Things you must bring to the jungle</h2>
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SPF 50. Slap it on every morning, no excuses. A hat - and wear it. A good torch (for night-walks). Stock up on antihistamines, pain-killers and loperamide (in case you get the s*its). A couple of ziploc bags can be useful to store your electrical items if it gets too humid. If you've got binoculars, pack them. Finally, there's reduced electricity in the jungle - usually a generator runs a couple of hours in the evening. So bring a battery pack for your phone and cameras.</div>
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And make sure this all fits in a backpack or a weekend bag you can carry on your back. No wheelies! You'll have to lug this bag around with you from the city to a boat, up some precarious steps to a lodge and then through wooden walkways to your private lodge.</div>
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6. Tap water isn't potable (drinkable)</h2>
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Therefore bring your own bottled water and re-fill your bottle to take with you on your adventures. The lodge will provide plenty of juice, water, tea and coffee during downtime. </div>
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7. Follow directions from your guide</h2>
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And whatever you do, respect the jungle! Don't attempt to go into the jungle by yourself for a walk or go into an area that you haven't been told you're allowed to go to. </div>
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8. The delights of the jungle are subtle...</h2>
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Throughout your stay in the jungle you'll gradually start feeling the effects of having little technology around you and a LOT of nature. The city buzz is replaced with water trickling, loud noises of frogs, birds, cicadas at night, and just about a million other sounds that fill your head and calm your spirit. It's a peaceful place to be in, yet full of life.</div>
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But even though 10% of the world's species live in the Peruvian Amazon, you won't be running into wildlife at every turn. You are most likely to see birds, insects, fish and monkeys during your trip. If your guide is really good, he'll spot tons more animals and point them out to you during the different trips you'll do on the boat.</div>
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9. Don't touch the animals</h2>
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If you do see wildlife - don't touch it! Ask your tour operator beforehand if you'll visit any "sanctuaries" where you'll be encouraged to hold or touch animals. If they do, we discourage you from booking with them - or at least from touching the animals if you do book with them. True animal sanctuaries only keep endangered species or animals that are not otherwise able to go back to living in the wild.</div>
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10. If you're doing Ayahuasca, do it responsibly</h2>
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You will probably be researching this one a bit more than just reading about it on a list of tips. But it's worth a mention. This is a serious experience that requires very knowledgeable spiritual guides. There are many stories of scams or worse. If you're going to do this, don't let it be a last-minute decision and make sure you don't put yourself in danger. This is is a matter of life and death, not one to joke about.</div>
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That's it! Those are our 10 things you need to know before you go to the Peruvian Amazon. I hope you are prepared and looking forward to visit this amazing region of Peru.</div>
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If you have any tips you think we should include here or you want to share your tips with us, we'd love to hear them! Pop them in the comment section just below!</h4>
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<a href="https://mailchi.mp/fa0e36604082/freeguidetoperu" target="_blank">We've created an awesome 1-page guide with the best tips from all our friends & family who've been to Peru recently. Plus, I'm Peruvian! Get your PDF download for free here.</a></h4>
Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Iquitos, Peru-3.7436735 -73.2516326-3.8704305 -73.412994099999992 -3.6169165 -73.0902711tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2406672862566465991.post-88880826565810744772018-03-01T18:38:00.000+00:002018-08-18T20:01:22.531+01:00A Guided Walk in Paris with Locals: 5 Non-Touristy Things to See<br />
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Been to Paris several times? Join me on a guided walk with locals to enjoy Paris' hidden trails.<br />
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The City of Lights is the perfect city to lose yourself in on a long walk. Personally, I love how tangible history feels through architecture. Walking through the old streets and markets, I could almost believe I'm walking back through time and it feels enchanting.<br />
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Being from London, it's easy to hop on the Eurostar and be in Paris within a couple of hours, so I love popping over there. Whether I'm visiting friends in Paris or on a weekend getaway I tend to skip the main tourist attractions and go for the more unusual things to do. I like to do Paris like a local.<br />
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The walk I'm going to share with you still takes you through some majors landmarks without actually getting stuck in the tourist lines.<br />
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1. Sail a (Toy) Boat in the Luxembourg Gardens Pond</h2>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>By xiquinhosilva from Cacau - 57246-Paris, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=67416276</i></span></div>
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Marie de' Medici from Florence became queen of France in 1610. Although her husband Henry IV was not wealthy, she brought her own fortune from Florence and invested heavily in several building projects in France. One of them was the Palais de Luxembourg, which she dubbed Palais Médicis.<br />
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We start our walk at the Porte Observatoire (either West or East will do) of the Jardins and walk through the canopy of lined up trees towards the Grand Basin. On any given day you can also explore the grounds, which incorporate English gardens (informal) and French gardens (formal and symmetric), tennis, boules and basketball courts, an apiary, an orchard and much more.<br />
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Today we stop by the Grand Basin to watch children as they push their rented toy sail boats. This is a great pastime and tradition - trying to get the boat to the other side of the basin is more challenging than it looks. If you're feeling skilful, give it a go.<br />
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When we've done enough people-watching, we check out the Marie de Medicis Fountain and then exit via Porte Edmond Rostand, walking towards the Panthéon.<br />
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2. Admire the Architecture of the Panthéon, the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève and the Church of Saint-Étienne-du-Mont</h2>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>By Marie-Lan Nguyen - Own work, CC BY 2.0 fr, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=14961970</i></span></div>
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As we reach the Panthéon we can see a long queue of tourists waiting to go in, but if you're lucky and you find yourself there during a quiet time see if you can nip in for free (first Sunday of every month and free to EU nationals between 18-25).</div>
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Left of the Panthéon (if you are facing its facade) is the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève. Its exterior looks plain, but don't be deceived. Inside is a palace for contemplation and learning, a masterpiece in ironwork and masonry. It was built by Henri Labrouste in the 1800s under influence from his previous studies of Roman architecture. It can be visited briefly in many different ways: you can join online and pick up your library card or you can go for Discovery Tours or Heritage visits. These are free - check their website for more details.<br />
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Continue on Rue de la Montagne Sainte Geneviève to pop into the church of Saint-Étienne-du-Mont (the Patron Saint of Paris). Here you can admire the French Gothic architecture in all its glory. When you come out of the church and make a right, check out the steps from Midnight in Paris where Gil sees a 1920s Peugeot at midnight.<br />
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As you walk down the Rue, pop into cool record shop La Dame Blanche and pick up an old classic to remind you of your trip or as a souvenir.<br />
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3. Spot Secret Remains of Paris' History</h2>
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<i><span style="font-size: xx-small;">By Poulpy - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=20344778</span></i></div>
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We follow the road until it intersects with Boulevard Saint-Germain and take Rue Lagrange to cross Pont au Doble. This brings us in front of Notre-Dame, but we keep walking past it on Rue d'Arcole and take a right on Rue Chanoinesse.<br />
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At this point, our friends point to us a red door on number 26. Behind it lies a courtyard featuring one of the most bizarre architectural choices in Paris: the courtyard is paved in gravestones from former churches that closed in the 19th century. Gothic writing can be seen on almost half of the courtyard's pave stones. To see this you'll have to get lucky, however. The courtyard door is mostly closed.</div>
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Now we turn around and take the corner on the right - Rue de la Colombe and then another right on Rue des Ursin. As we approach the end of this road my friend points out a marker on the wall. It shows the River Seine's water levels in the 1900s, just on the corner of Rue des Ursin and Rue des Chantres.<br />
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The 1910 Great Flood of Paris happened as the Seine got swollen with rainfall from the previous December. People ignored the warning signs as the markers showed the river had risen to 8 meters above normal. Although the river didn't flood Paris through the river banks, it did so through tunnels, sewers and drains.</div>
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4. Eat Galettes and Ice-Cream at Île Saint-Louis</h2>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>By David Monniaux - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=92101</i></span></div>
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We walk on to Quai aux Fleurs next to the Seine to cross Pont Saint Louis to the Île Saint-Louis. This isle is one of Paris' two natural isles (the other being Île de la Cité). It was planned and built in the 17th century and today houses artists and academics amongst its narrow, quiet streets.<br />
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This is one of my favourite places in central paris, an oasis of calm away from the masses. When you get here, I suggest you explore it at your leisure. My recommended route is to go down Quai d'Orleans and then a left on Rue des Deux Ponts, not before checking out the facade of Marie Curie's house on 36 Quai de Béthune.<br />
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On Rue des Deux Ponts I'll have a savoury crepe (galette) at Crêpe en l'Isle and then devour an ice-cream at Berthillon Glacier - easily the most famous ice-cream in Paris.<br />
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5. Take a Long Afternoon Walk to Petit Palais</h2>
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Now we head over to the 4th Arrondissement via Pont Marie. The sun is beating down as we walk on Parc des Rives de Seine (the scenic route) and the river glistens as boats go past us.<br />
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This is a long, leisurely walk of around 45 minutes, but we're not in a hurry. We pass some antique book stalls, record stalls and artists with their watercolours for sale. I love browsing the goods though I don't often buy souvenirs. I'd love to buy a book but I can't read French. After a few minutes Chris rejoins us with a Bruce Springsteen record - The River - that set him back €10.<br />
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The Petit Palais is the City of Paris Fine Art Museum. It's a beautiful building, erected for the 1900 Exposition Universelle and reopened in 2005 after years of renovations. Today, it's free to the public to enjoy - there's art from several periods as well as temporary exhibitions. The architecture itself is fascinating, and features a lot of murals and painted ceilings.<br />
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The best-kept secret to this gorgeous place is its cafe, tucked away towards the back of the ground floor. It has seating outside facing the garden, and it's here that we finally all sit down to enjoy an afternoon coffee and some delicious patisserie.<br />
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Do you have a secret Paris walking route you love to follow? Share it with us on the comments below!</h4>
Caterinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14808087628370044610noreply@blogger.com0Paris, France48.856614 2.352221900000017748.856614 2.3522219000000177 48.856614 2.3522219000000177