Japan 2 Weeks Travel Itinerary for the Hungry Explorer

Two weeks in Japan beyond the Golden Route: the big sights without the crowds, plus the quiet places between. Sounds intriguing? Read on.

Congratulations — you're going to Japan!

You'll spend many hours trawling blogs, and you may already have a fully-fledged ChatGPT itinerary. Let me guess: Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. Plus Hiroshima and Miyajima, or maybe Kanazawa. A day trip to Nara or Nikko?

That's the route almost everyone does – and in 2025 almost everyone did: Japan crossed 42 million visitors and a lot of that route now means queuing shoulder-to-shoulder for a photo you've already seen.

Let me offer you something different. What if you could dip your toes in the big sights, then go much deeper? This is the two-week route we'd send our closest friends on (and did): the legendary places, timed so you can enjoy them, stitched together with the quainter spaces between.

The Itinerary

Days 1 - 3: Tokyo

Fly into Haneda. It's often cheaper to fly to and it's closer to Tokyo than Narita.

Spend your first two days in Tokyo getting to grips with Japanese technology and culture. You might be looking forward to Shibuya crossing but nothing prepares you for the first time your tushie receives the warm embrace of a Japanese toilet seat. Enjoy it.

In Tokyo, you'll tick off your bucketlist. Not likely to feature in your bucketlist, but highly recommended are:

Shimokitazawa, the antidote to Shibuya and Shinjuku. Extremely walkable, it's a hub for independent businesses, indie arts and music scene. Just as vibrant at brunch as at cocktail hour, head here for vintage shopping, indie coffee, live-music basements and curry.

An evening in a jazz kissa (listening café/bar). Vintage vinyl on hi-fi, low light, no talking, one good whisky or coffee.

Kappabashi knife street. For hand-forged kitchen knives. Many hops will grind a custom engraving while you wait. And you get to take home craft-quality knives.

Where to Stay in Tokyo

The earlier you lock in on Tokyo, the better and the cheaper the stay. You should stay at a Ryokan, a traditional guest house, at least once in Japan.

My pick: For price + vibes Komatsuya A record-loving guesthouse in old-Tokyo Mukōjima, with a shared kitchen, vinyl nights and a Shōwa-era bathhouse next door. Or for max budgets, rent out a whole Machiya (traditional Kyoto House).

Days 4 & 5: Matsumoto

On day 4 jump on a train to Matsumoto (just over 3 hrs). Arriving in Matsumoto take it easy. Take a stroll, relax and visit Matsumoto Castle – one of Japan’s most beautiful original castles. Get a free tour guide in English. There will be volunteer guides and no tips are allowed (you can pay with smiles!).

Lunch on delicious and fresh handmade Soba noodles at top-rated Kobayashi Soba or even better, at そば処 吉邦 (you're going to have to google that). This one is next to the Castle, is locally-owned by a couple and they make the best Soba.

After lunch go to the Matsumoto City Museum of Art. Matsumoto is the home of internationally renowned artist Yayoi Kusama, and they'll have an exhibition that will turn your perception of art upside down. You can't take photos of the more intense-psychedelic ones. But the exhibition spans three floors and there's a great chance you won't have to share it with many people.



In the evening wander around the super hip town centre where you'll find fantastic independent shops, restaurants, hipster bars and galleries. This is an art & culture town after all. Head over to the tiiiiny standing 8 oz bar and strike a conversation with strangers (this is also the friendliest town!). For dinner and more drinks, walk into the Izakaya (pub) across the road. It's called Hi-kage - ひかげ（炎影)

Matsumoto really is the friendliest town!

The next day take a day trip to the Kiso Valley. Here is the Nakasendo trail, a Samurai route from the Edo period that connects Tokyo to Kyoto. Today, several postal towns have been restored by local residents. The highlight is an 8km segment of the trail, which you can walk through the forest, hills and countryside. It's an easy hike. Or you can take a coach and choose to visit only one of the towns.

I recommend the walk from Magome to Tsumago, because Tsumago is a nicer town to rest in, but also because the walk this way is a bit easier. You can do the walk either way, though.



Top tip: rent a bell from the infomation centre if you go for the walk. Ring it along the walk to help keep bears away from the walking trails.

At the end of the day take a complimentary shuttle bus and stay in the mountains in Tokonamiso (book ahead and ask for dinner and breakfast options). This will be a mini-holiday in itself as you get to relax, be taken care of and experience traditional Japanese hospitality and facilities. Soak your muscles in their outdoor Onsen (hot springs) overlooking the mountains. Watch the stars on their stargazing deck. Relax!

Tip: Tsumago and Magome both shut at 5PM - there is no night life at all. No matter where you choose to stay, book your meals in advance. There won't be alternatives (restaurants, shops).

Where to stay in Matsumoto

The 2 highest rated western style hotels on booking.com are the Richmond Hotel Matsumoto and the Dormy Inn but I cannot recommend enough that you go to Tabi-shiro. This is a 2-year old renovation with heart, soul & amazing decor. It's a simple but beautiful Japanese stay. The owner, a young Japanese man called Kio, will make you feel welcome.

Days 6 & 7: Osaka

Osaka is a foodie destination, and in this itinerary, it’s also a tactical stop.

On the morning of the 6th day, catch the early shuttle from the guesthouse to the train station. Take your train to Osaka. This one is a long one - nearly 4 hours. So get your travel diary out and perch yourself on a window seat.

Arrive in Osaka in time for lunch and head straight for the Dotonbori, an area by the river full of restaurants and shops. After lunch you can walk by Osaka Castle and the Keitakuen gardens.

Ichiran Dotonbori serve cheap but good Ramen. Okonomiyaki Chitose do the famous Osaka Okonomiyaki (fried omelettes with noodles and lots of goodies inside), also cheap. Most places to eat in Osaka are cheap and cheerful, with a variety of causal Izakayas (pub-like restaurants to drink and eat lots of little dishes).

At the Dotonbori don’t forget to visit the crazy shop Don Quijote. Floors upon floors of the craziest little Japanese things, super cheap. This is where you stock up on Japanese paraphernalia to take back for yourself your friends.

When you’re done, head to the Umeda Sky building for amazing views of the city at sunset. Or if you fancy skipping all of that, you can visit the Museum of Housing and Living. It’s a life-size model of a city (buildings and streets) from Edo Period.

On day 7 you have 2 day trip options: Nara or Koya-san.

In Nara you can have long walks discovering the scattered ancient temples and Shinto shrines along Nara park, where the famous deer live. You'll see lush gardens and giant buddhas and feast on the most amazing Tuna sashimi at Maguro Koya (this looks like a greasy hole but is Nara's best kept secret. Shh! Don't tell anyone).




Koya-san is a sacred mountain and the centre of Shingon Buddhism. Kobo Daishi (Japan's grand master of Buddhism) established his retreat here in 816AD. Today, you can visit several temples nestled in primeval forest as monks offer their prayers. The Okunoin (Monk cementery) is an experience of its own. Walking through it will take you to the Hall of Lamps. Behind it is the Kobo Daishi Mausoleom. Not many first-time visitors choose to come to Koya-san so this is a different experience and a treat! You can read all about our experience there on this post.




If you're up for it, and for a heightened and much improved experience, stay overnight in a Shukubo (Temple lodging). Wake up with the Monks to chant and experience their bare cuisine. If you do this, you also get to experience Okunoin cementery at nightfall, which is by far my top experience in Japan.

Whichever experience you choose, it will be unforgettable.

Where to stay in Osaka

We stayed at the fabulous Hotel Ichei. Right by Osaka station and within walking distance of lots of great things to see & do. Highly, highly recommend getting a Japanese-style room. 

Days 8 & 9: Hiroshima & Miyajima and the Floating Torii

If you look at a map of Japan you will think I'm crazy to suggest you head over to Hiroshima now. But you'll be surprised to know it only takes about 2 and a half hours. This morning, that's what you're going to do.

Grab your bags and hop on a super fast train to Hiroshima. Leave your backpack at the station and head for Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. If you think Hiroshima is a sad place, let me break your prejudice now. Hiroshima is a prosperous city that has moved on from the A-bomb. Moved on, but not forgotten. Visiting it opened my eyes to history, to suffering but also to the beauty and strength of humanity. It is a humbling place and it must be in your itinerary.

It won't take you the whole day, but take your time anyway. Make sure to stop at a little spot for lunch - anywhere where it's small and you can see a lot of locals hunched over food will be good. Ask for a Hiroshima Okonomiyaki. Now you can compare the Osaka vs Hiroshima styles!

In the evening head to the harbour (hop on the San-yo line, about 25 minutes) and board a ferry to Miyajima island (10 minutes, less than $5). This magnificent little island is where you'll spend the night.



You’ll arrive at dusk and it will be magical. You’ll be picked up by your hotel’s transportation at the port and, because the town is tiny, you’ll be dropping your bags and putting your feet up in 5 minutes. Make sure they feed you well before you head back out to see the little town at night when it comes alive. And make sure to get your picture of the red Torii at night too! 

The next day, check out some stores and the temples. Do a little exploration on your own. Buy some packed lunch and head up to hike Mount Misen. When you get to the top, get your lunch out and enjoy the views of the Seto inland sea!

Where to stay in Miyajima

For this trip I recommend Momijiso, a very humble and rather affordable traditional Ryokan nestled in the primaeval forest ran by a husband and wife team. They’ll run you a bath before you head to bed. It's also super close to the start of Mount Misen ropeway.

Days 10 - 14: Kyoto & fly home

When you've come down from St Misen, start making your way back to catch the ferry back and then the San-yo line to Hiroshima. Get an Ekiben for dinner (train station bento) and hop on a train straight to Kyoto.

You’ll arrive in Kyoto just as the day ends, but that’s only when the fun starts! There are a lot of Kyoto itineraries out there so pick and choose what you like and explore. For now, just relax.

Whilst you're in Kyoto don't forget to see the Bamboo Forest (Arashiyama), the Golden temple (Kinkakuji), the Geisha distric (Gion), Kiyomizu-dera, Daigo-ji, Fushimi Inari Taisha and Tō-ji.

My secret tip in Kyoto is that, after you're templed-out (will be around the end of 12) head on a day trip to a magical relaxing experience to Mount Kurama. You'l take a sweet little train up with an amazing view up the mountains. There, go for a light hike of Kurama-dera (very different temple to what you will have seen in Kyoto!). There won't be many people there, and you'll have much more spiritual experience. Enjoy the spectacular view at the top. The best part is when you're ready to come down: head to Kurama Onsen. There's outdoor hot springs overlooking the beautiful mountains and forest.

Where to stay in Kyoto

Close to the Imperial Palace is the minimalist yet warm Bird Hostel. If you want something a bit more traditional (and have a bigger budget), stay at Kyo no Yado Sangen Ninenzaka. A third exceptional yet budget option is Mulan Hostel. You can get either bunk beds or private rooms.

Day 14 is for onward travel & catching your inbound flight home.

Top Tips for Keeping it Sustainable & Getting Extra Enjoyment

• You'll be passing some areas of incredible natural beauty - keep them that way! Take your rubbish home :)
• Bring a refillable water bottle with you from home. Extra points if you bring chopsticks or cutlery for all the bento and on-the-go meals you'll have
• Where possible book lodgings with local farm, families or guesthouses. You can google guesthouses and pick those whose names appear in Japanese only - then use Google Translate to make a booking directly with them. Most will accept an email or phone call
• Even if a bit more inconvenient than using a booking website, book directly with the guesthouses. You'll get the best rate and 100% of your money will go towards that business. Re-confirm a week before travel
• Remember that many smaller towns will not be there with the sole purpose of tourism, so not everything might be convenient in the more rural towns. Be patient and plan ahead so you can fully enjoy your time. This is true especially of dinners / breakfasts (book them with the guesthouse ahead!)
• Try to speak to locals, asking for recommendations (ososume) at restaurants or to other customers at bars
• Japan is still very traditional in handling money. They prefer cash. Make sure you withdraw enough at the airport. You can also find cash machines that work with international cards at 7-Eleven. Many places don't take Visa or Mastercard for withdrawing money
• The Japanese do however have contact-less, but only if you use one of their cards. A popular pre paid card is the SUICA - here's how to buy one. You can use the SUICA to pay for transport, or at grocery stores
• Where possible try to eat where the locals are eating!
• Favour fresh, local produce over mass-produced or touristy offerings
• The Japanese do not have a tipping culture. If you tip them, they will follow you and chase you to return your money.
• Be respectful especially towards temples and religious buildings, in following custom, covering up and removing shoes when stepping inside

That's it!

Hope you enjoyed this post and found it informative! If you liked it, please share it with someone who will find it useful. If you've been to one of these places or have something to say - let me know in the comments below!